Trip
Intermediate Alpine Climb - Forbidden Peak/Northwest Face of North Ridge
2-day climb of the Northwest Face of Forbidden Peak, with an approach via Sharkin Col and descent down the West Ridge
- Wed, Jul 15, 2026 — Thu, Jul 16, 2026
- Kitsap Branch Climbing Program
- Climbing
- Intermediate Alpine
- All Who Qualify, Adults
- 5.8
- Challenging
- Mileage: 7.0
- Elevation Gain: 6,200 ft
- 2 (2 capacity)
- FULL (2 capacity)
- Mon, Jun 15, 2026 at 12:00 PM
- Wed, Jul 8, 2026 at 5:00 PM
- Cancellation & Refund Policy
- iCal Google
Goals and expectations:
- A 2 day/1 night climb of the NW Face of Forbidden Peak
- 2 rope teams (4 people total)
- Dates may change depending on weather and conditions
- This is a strenuous, challenging route that involves glacier travel, bergshrund-rock transitions, navigating crevasses, potentially some ice climbing, simul-climbing, climbing a 5.8 crux with your overnight pack, many raps and creek crossings
- The plan is to approach via Sharkin Col, bivy on the North Ridge, and then the next day--simul the ridge, pitch out the 5.8 crux, and descend down the West Ridge
Some trip reports for your reading:
- https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/108167-tr-forbidden-peak-nw-face-07132025/
- https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/trip-reports/forbidden-peak-nw-face
- https://spokalpine.com/2020/07/29/forbidden-peak-nw-face-iv-5-8/
- https://gethighonaltitude.com/2020/07/26/forbidden-peak-north-ridge-via-nw-face/
Requesting permission:
- Please wait until registration opens to request permission.
- This trip is open to intermediate students and intermediate graduates.
- When requesting permission, please include a link to your Mountain Project, experience simul-climbing, and any long multi-day alpine objectives you've completed.
Trailhead, early AM.
Route/Place
Forbidden Peak/Northwest Face of North Ridge
-
USGS Forbidden Peak
USGS Cascade Pass
Green Trails Cascade Pass No. 80
Green Trails Diablo Dam No. 48
Green Trails North Cascades Ross Lake No. 16SX
Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park - See full route/place details.
Roster
Required Equipment
Required Equipment
- The Ten Essentials
- Mountain boots that can accept crampons (not hiking boots)
- Crampons
- An ice axe (not technical ice tools)
- A sleeping bag rated to +20 degrees or colder
- A sleeping pad
- A back pack (40 to 60 liters)
- Webbing and accessory cords
- 6 straight gate carabiners
- 2 locking carabiners
- Large pear-shaped locking carabiner
- Belay device
- Climbing harness
- Helmet
- Chock pick (nut tool)
- Rescue pulley
- Fleece or puffy jacket
- Rain jacket and full-zip rain pants
- Belay gloves
- Warm gloves or mittens
- Cordellete
- Picket or other relevant protection
- Extra webbing or cord
Trip Reports