Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Squak Glacier

Trip

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Squak Glacier

Spring Climbing/Skiing at its finest. Skin up and descend Squak Glacier. Starting from Park Butte Trail Head at 5AM and taking the most direct route possible through the trees (snow depth dependent) up towards Crag View and the toe of the Squak Glacier. Once on the Glacier continue up bearing north past Sherman Peak and the Summit Crater and then NE up the Roman Wall to the Summit. We will likely boot up (carrying skis) from the Summit Crater to the top. Once we have a hydration/nutrition break at the summit we will don skis and head down for over 3000' of fun fall line skiing and then snow permitting make our way through the trees back down to the TH and cars.

  • Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
  • Moderate
  • Mileage: 15.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,800 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 10,786 ft
  • 1 (4 capacity)
  • Thu, Jun 1, 2023 at 3:05 PM
  • Fri, Jun 2, 2023 at 5:00 PM
  • Cancellation & Refund Policy
  • iCal Google

Squak Glacier route on Mt Baker

Crevasses are opening and bridges are weakening (there was a report of a person skiing into a crevasse last week at about 9000').

Park Butte Trail Head (or as close as we can get driving - may still have snow blocking the road).  I'll be there Saturday evening and will bivi in my car.

Roster
Route/Place

Sherman Peak/Squak Glacier (Mount Baker)


Required Equipment

Required Equipment

  • The Ten Essentials
  • Boots, skis/snowboard, poles
  • Climbing skins (or other method to travel uphill on snow)
  • Avalanche shovel (metal blade)
  • Avalanche beacon
  • Avalanche probe
  • For safety I'd recommend making sure to have the following
    • Helmet
    • Boot and Ski Crampons
    • Harness
    • Crevasse Rescue Gear
    • Personal tethering system
    • Equipment to belay, lower/raise, and rappel
  • Food and Water for the day (may find free water on the glacier, but not guaranteed).
  • Sun Protection Sun Glasses, Sun Screen, Lip Screen, Sun Hoody (optional, but great to have)
Trip Reports