Beta and Brews: Lani Chapko on Castle in the Sky, Tanuki Ridge, and planning a First Ascent

Lani Chapko is an AMGA rock guide with multiple Washington FAs under her belt. In this Beta and Brews, she'll share beta on two of those routes, as well as what's involved in putting together an FA in the Cascades. Take this knowledge and tackle these new alpine multipitches, or start planning for that unclimbed line you've had your eye on!

In August 2022, Lani and her climbing partner, Sam Boyce, put up a new route on the south buttress of Whatcom Peak, "Castle in the Sky" (IV 5.10b). This 12 pitch route really has it all, with slabs, bucket jugs, a water-polished slot canyon, bulletproof gneiss, Pickets shattered rock, ridge scrambling, a roof pull, and "genuinely fun crack climbing." In August of this year, she, Sam, and Nick Gonzalez put up another FA on the direct southeast ridge of Seahpo Peak, "Tanuki Ridge" (V 5.9), a 30 pitch climb on one of the largest technical features in the lower 48. This climb took multiple attempts and balances "munge-a-neering" in some places with clean, moderate climbing in others. Lani highly recommends both climbs to anyone up for a true Cascadian adventure!

This event is free and open to the public. You will not be asked to enter any credit card information to RSVP! We will have complimentary beers and soft drinks for you to enjoy.

Image credit: sam boyce