Knots Evaluation - American Alpine Institute

Learn these knots and hitches:

• Single Overhand Knot: Commonly used as a backup knot behind a primary knot
• Double Overhand Knot: Used to tie off the free end of each individual rappel rope, or to finish a loose end on a Figure-8 or Bowline
• Flat Overhand Knot: Used to join two ends of rope together for rappelling
• Water Knot: Used to tie two ends of tubular webbing/slings together
• Double Fisherman’s: Used to tie two ends of perlon or two rope ends together

• Figure-8 Loop (Figure-8 on a Bight): Used to attach end of rope to carabiner or middle of rope when one direction of pull is expected

• Rewoven Figure-8: Used when tying in end of rope to harness, or attaching rope to anchor without carabiners
• Butterfly Knot: Used to make a loop in middle of rope when pull may be exerted in either direction
• Bowline: Used to make a non-slipping loop in the end of a rope; not currently recommended as a climbing knot
• Girth Hitch: Used to attach tied loops of sling or perlon around anchors, or through harnesses or carabiners without having to open them
• Clove Hitch: Used when making adjustments to anchor tie-in
• Münter Hitch: Used for friction belay from pearabiner
• Prusik Hitch: Adjustable friction knot used for ascending a rope
• Autoblock: Used for rappel backup
• Mule Hitch: Used by belayer to “tie off” a fallen leader so belayer’s hands are free

• Rappel Setup

AAI @ 7