Black Peak/Northeast Ridge

getting there

Take Highway 20 to Rainy Pass. Turn right into the picnic  parking lot and for Lake Ann/Heather Pass Trail.

NOTES

• It is arguable if this would qualify as an Intermediate Rock route (three linked pitches with a low Class 5 move in each) or just an Intermediate Mountaineering climb. The technical portion of this route is Grade III, and takes several hours even when simul-climbing. The middle section of the route is the most difficult with some 5th class moves here and there.

• There can be an amazing amount of loose rock falling on the first pitch for other parties or the first climbers above. Stay around the corner for protection from the inevitable and prolific rock fall.

information for leaders

Courses, paid clinics, staff-led programs, and course field trips require a Commercial Use Authorization. The Park typically accepts applications for 2-year CUAs  through mid-March each year, and CUA's are activity-specific. Please contact info@mountaineers.org if you would like to apply for a CUA for a field trip or paid clinic for an activity we do not already have a CUA for. Please follow all Mountaineers group guidelines when leading trips or courses in North Cascades National Park. 

Notes:

• Leaders are responsible for securing backcountry permits or other required permits even if  we have a CUA.
• Leaders must have all relevant CUAs with them in paper or electronic copy to show Parks Staff as requested. 
• All Hiking course field trips or paid clinics must have a First aid and CPR certified leader. Current (non-expired) certificates must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
• All mountaineering field trips or paid clinics must have a WFR-certified leader and a leader with documented climbing certifications (an AMGA certification OR Mountaineers climb leader with a recent resume of training and experience). Both qualifications must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip

View list of current North Cascades CUAs

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
• Length: 10.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 4,130 ft
• High Point: 8,970 ft

• Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  Stephen Mather Wilderness
• Parking Permit Required: None
• Recommended Party Size: 6
• Maximum Party Size: 6
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6