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Trip Report    

Vesper Peak/North Face

Trip took place on Sun, Aug 23, 2015

We climbed the standard Ragged Edges route (vs the variation). Overall the climb itself went without incident. The route itself is runout and thin on pro in many places. Climbing is consistent with grade and generally sustained. Pitch 1 is runout but definitely not 5.7. Pitch 2 is a bolted friction climb. Pitch 3 has some really loose rock at the start, specifically there is a detached block just above the belayer that has a slot that appears perfect to place a cam but it would be a mistake to even step on it. Pitch 4 had some pretty good pro and is generally fun. Pitch 5 was runout again with thin pro and a traverse that is difficult to protect but the pro is there and a fall for the second here would be nasty. Pitch 6 has some awesome exposure but terminates in a series of mossy ledges.

A single rack up to 3" worked well but we placed a lot of micro cams (smaller X4s and C3s) and a handful of nuts. I don't think I placed the #3 C4.

Smoke from the fires obscured views for much of the day.

11.5 hours RT. We were behind a WAC group and another group of Mountaineers on a private climb. We agreed we could have easily cut 2h off the roundtrip time had we started earlier.

  • Red Marker
    48.024752, -121.477818
    48.0247521416 -121.477817595
  • Red Marker
    48.012941, -121.517917
    48.0129413176 -121.517916607

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Ian Dickson
Ian Dickson says:
Sat, Mar 3, 2018 11:03 AM

Nice job!