Unicorn Peak/South Side

Snow melted out to base of first gully, slow going on tallus field above Snow Lake to the gully. Snow coverage in the first gully thin directly above stream with several holes. Kept to side to avoid punching through.

Heavy cloud cover from top of the first gully to summit, relied on GPS and prior experience since landmarks were largely obscured. Misty at times. Only peak-a-boo views of Mt. Rainier.

No moat yet above the col but a bit icy.

Soft snow the whole day; didn't need crampons at all. Snow largely stable except near summit block where top 1" of snow slid in spots on the slop below the boot track.

2 other parties on summit block when we arrived but they finished rapping off by the time our party summitted. Climbed right skyline, rapped off tree anchor. Used two 60 meter ropes to speed up process.

10 hours car-to-car.