Teanaway Peak

Saturday, Oct 11, 2014:
This was the third time that I've led the South Face route, including the 9/30/2006 inaugural. Under nearly clear skies, we left De Roux CG at 0815, took the Iron Pk Trail to 6000', then left the trail and crossed scree to the base of the south-to-north gully system. Routefinding is a bit tedious and the terrain sketchy for the first 150', but thereafter the gully opens into a 450' clear sail of fine rock scrambling to within 200' of the summit. From there, it's a walk up the S ridge.

We climbed the face through a passing light shower and intensifying wind. By the time we reached Teanaway's summit, it was gusting to an estimated 40 mph and clouds were thickening. We had intended to again run the ridge NW and then N to Longs Pass, but with the weather worsening and one in the party having suffered a bruised thigh on the ascent, we elected to descend Teanaway's SE slope and pick up the homeward trail at the Teanaway/Iron saddle. After a brief rest stop at the saddle we resumed our descent as the rain picked up. Nearing the 6000' level we were treated to a deafening thunderclap coming from almost directly above us. With the trail becoming a streamlet, we looked back through the mist to see snow beginning to collect on the rocks where we had been scarcely an hour before. Yes, "Weather can change rapidly in the mountains." And it does.

Time: 4 hours to summit, 7 hours car-car.