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Trip Report    

Silver Star Mountain/Silver Star Glacier

Left TH at 6:45am on 5/13. A little route finding required getting down to the creek and then up again through the trees. Previous foot steps led us to a good log crossing.
Once you get back up to level with the highway, trail is snow free until close to bench camp. Burgundy Col is mostly still snow covered. Snow conditions were mostly very good, firm in the morning for crampons.
Descent from Burgundy Col was in a good condition and can be downclimbed without protection. Safe runout at this time. Nice soft snow on the east side of the mountain.
One tiny crevasse was barely visible on the Silver Star glacier.
Summit block is about 70% still snow covered. We tried one route to the summit which was an awkward 4th or low 5th class squeeze chimney on the east side, but it is not the easiest way. Rest of the group found an easier way on the north side, which we scrambled or prusiked up a line.
Descent was uneventful, returned to cars about 6:45pm. 12 hours car to car with a team of 9. We had the mountain to ourselves all day.
The route is in great condition right now. Beautiful day and the views are absolutely spectacular!

  • Red Marker
    48.554586, -120.631104
    48.5545859651 -120.631103754
  • Red Marker
    48.548305, -120.588212
    48.5483049905 -120.588211967

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