Placeholder Routes & Places

Trip Report    

Silver Star Mountain/Silver Star Glacier

June 28-29
Team of 8 left TH at about 10:30am. There is a much better log for crossing the stream if you bushwhack about 100 yards right of the trail. Camped at the bench at 6,500 ft. Camp area is about half melted out, plenty of room for our tents plus two other parties. A couple hundred hards ne of camp, there is a nice spring for pumping water.
Left camp at 5:30am the next day in cloudy, foggy skies, which turned to light snow at the top of Burgundy Col. There is a climbers trail up to the col, which is not as bad as it looks. Watch for cairns.
Descending Burgundy Col was steep, but snow was nice and soft, and there is a long, safe runout. Our party glissaded, or downclimbed the first steepest section, and then glissaded.
SuperTopo's "Washington Pass Climbing" book says to descend 300 feet from the col. This is way too far, it is more like 150-200. You want to head climber's right up to the next snow saddle as soon as you can.
We roped up for the glacier portion once we were past the wine spires. We saw zero crevasses.
Snow continued and visibility was poor. We set wands to mark our route. Summit block was covered in a light dusting of new snow, but was not slick and we were still able to scramble it. No views, unfortunately. We made the summit by about 10:20.
We carried, but did not use pickets or crampons.