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Trip Report    

Ruth Mountain & Icy Peak Traverse

I have done this traverse and Ruth Mtn many times, and the conditions on the Ruth glacier are the most challenging that I have every experienced. The normal route towards the left side of the glacier up Ruth is not passable to do many large crevasses. We had to skirt towards the right, through other smaller crevasses. We crossed many snow bridges, and had to front point up several steep sections. We belayed students on the way down through the crux. If you are going to do this route, bring pickets, screws, crampons, etc... You will use them. The current conditions make route-finding difficult. Be careful out there! We actually had to help rescue two climbers on the glacier who did not have enough experience/equipment to get off of the mountain.

 

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