Rim to Rim - Grand Canyon National Park

From Mount Whitney to Plan B

Originally, we were supposed to summit Mount Whitney, but with nasty gusts and stormy weather on the forecast, we pulled the plug. With flights already booked, we pivoted fast. A few frantic searches later, the Grand Canyon rose to the top one of those hikes we’d all wanted to do “someday.” Well, someday became Saturday.

Flight from Seattle to Vegas with views of St Helens:

We flew into Las Vegas, rented cars, and road-tripped into Arizona.

Slot machines letting us know we are in Vegas already:

We crashed for the night in Williams, about an hour from the South Rim, so we could catch some sleep before the early start. Lucky for us, the North Rim had just opened for the season, meaning we didn’t have to do a soul-crushing round trip—we booked a last-minute shuttle to get us back to the South Rim after the hike.

Trip Stats

• Route: South Kaibab to North Kaibab
• Distance: ~21 miles
• Total Elevation Gain: ~6,600 ft
• Time: ~11.5 hours
• Start Time: 4:30 AM
• End Time: Just before 4 PM
• Best Lemonade Ever: Confirmed at Phantom Ranch
• Wildlife Sightings: One snake, many squirrels, lots of mules, and a bunch of tired but happy humans

Things to know more about Grand Canyon from the National Park service and Wikipedia:

Panorama of the Grand Canyon

Geology of the Grand Canyon

South Rim village of the Grand Canyon

Ranger guide and map of the Grand Canyon

Rim-to-Rim Route Decision Chart

Decision Factor	South to North (South Kaibab → North Kaibab)	North to South (North Kaibab → South Kaibab)
Best for First Timers?	✅ Yes	❌ Not ideal due to long, exposed climb at end
Shorter Distance	✅ ~21 miles	❌ ~24 miles
More Gradual Climb Out	✅ (Climb is steady and scenic)	❌ (Final miles up Bright Angel are steep)
Avoids Heat Better	✅ Early start clears hot canyon bottom earlier	❌ Harder to avoid midday heat in lower canyon
Best Sunrise Views	✅ Epic early canyon light on South Kaibab	❌ Less dramatic lighting early on
More Water Access	❌ No water for first 7 miles	✅ Multiple refill points along the trail
Peaceful Finish	✅ Ends at quiet North Rim in alpine forest	❌ Ends at crowded South Rim with tourists
Finish Near Hotels/Amenities	❌ Limited lodging at North Rim	✅ Plenty of lodging and services at South Rim
Easier Shuttle Timing	✅ Finish, rest, take shuttle next day or hire a personal car	✅ Start with shuttle, finish near your car

 

Using all the thoughts, we decided South to North is the best way to go for us!

The Hike Begins: South Rim to Phantom Ranch

We kicked off from the South Kaibab Trailhead at 4:30 AM, in the dark, our headlamps lighting the way. The morning was cool—perfect hiking weather—and the sky was just starting to hint at the sunrise. The trail drops fast, and within minutes we weaved our way down steep switchbacks, passing early-bird day hikers and the occasional runner already charging uphill.

 Start at the South Kaibab trail of the Grand Canyon

Twilight before sunrise as we start

One thing you quickly realize about the South Kaibab is that it wastes no time getting serious. It’s steep, exposed, and dry—there’s no water until you hit the bottom, so we loaded up in advance. The first real viewpoint was Ooh Aah Point, about a mile in, and it lived up to the name. The canyon stretched out in every direction, glowing in the early light. From there, the crowds started to thin, and we found our rhythm.

 views as we get down to Ooh aah Point:

Sunrise at 5.30 AM as we are dropping down in the well maintained trail

The trail was well maintained and wide. We saw a lot of runners going along, plus a lot of day hikers 

We passed Cedar Ridge and stopped briefly to take in the panorama—and breathe. There are toilets there but no water. The descent continued, revealing layer after layer of the canyon’s rock history, each stratum a different texture and color. Somewhere after Skeleton Point, the canyon felt like it had swallowed us whole. It’s humbling, being that small in something that big.

 At Cedar ridge - the trail markings were great - you can see the run rising from the back

Some of the day hikers turned around at Cedar ridge after sunrise and the others started trudging slowly down

Views of the carved earth formed over millions of years and the vast expanse of the canyons

The trail zig-zagged down through loose, muddy sections (thanks to spring runoff), winding closer to the Colorado River far below. Eventually, we hit the Tip-Off, a small rest area perched on the Tonto Platform with a composting toilet and a bit of shade. From here, the river finally came into view, shimmering in the sunlight—a mental milestone, even though we still had a ways to go.

Views of the carved earth formed over millions of years and the vast expanse of the canyons

After a while the trail turned into dusty, dark red soil- which zig zagged through to the next stopping point

Finally found my matching rock

Stepped off to the side of the trail to enjoy a quick break before we started again

The final descent before the river is both brutal and beautiful. The trail narrows, carved into ancient stone, and passes through a short tunnel just before you hit Black Bridge—a suspension bridge built in 1928 that spans the Colorado. Crossing it felt like walking into another world.

 

First views of the Black bridge, but we also saw people pack rafting the Colarado river, which was super fun to notice

The construction happening at Bright Angel campground

Clear views of the tunnel and the historic blackbridge

Runners going through the blackbridge as we exit the tunnel

Dont forget to stop by and learn about the native settlements who lived here long before and their way of life at the Pueblo site

The combined family living at the Pueblo site

On the other side, we found the Bright Angel Campground, still under construction as crews worked to rebuild the water pipeline that runs through the canyon. Just a few minutes up the trail was Phantom Ranch, where we took a well-earned break.

 There were water spots from here on - all the way to the top of North rim. So one doesnt have to worry about carrying water for 21 miles of hiking

First Rattlesnake sighting for me!

By then it was around 9:30 AM—five hours and nearly 7.5 miles into our day. We grabbed cold lemonade at the canteen at Phantom Ranch (totally lives up to the hype), wrote some postcards to be sent out by mule, and sat down for a bit, chatting with other hikers and soaking our feet in the cool creek nearby. We even saw a snake slither off into the underbrush—classic canyon moment.

 First views of the Ranger station and the Phantom Ranch

 First views of  Phantom Ranch

After we wrote post cards (which are carried by mules) we got lemonade and walked out. The Ranch is stocked with snacks, coffee, beverages and also games and AC. If you are lucky and have a reservation to stay in the lodging (using the lottery method), the lodges are powered with AC and you can enjoy the views better

Stopped at the Ranger station and got a stamp and marked our notes there. No summit register- no worries!

Everything about that stretch of trail—from the geology to the sunrise to the surreal little outpost at Phantom Ranch—made it feel like we were moving through time as much as space.

Phantom Ranch to the North Rim: The Real Work Begins

Leaving Phantom Ranch, we refilled our water, tightened our packs, and mentally geared up for what we all knew was going to be a long, slow climb out. From here, it was about 13.5 miles and over 6,000 feet of gain to the North Rim—and most of that climbing would hit us in the final stretch.

The trail north starts deceptively gentle. We followed the North Kaibab Trail along Bright Angel Creek, through a section known as “The Box.” It's a narrow, winding slot canyon carved into dark Vishnu Schist that’s over 1.7 billion years old. Pretty mind-blowing when you think about it. The canyon walls towered over us, and even in the morning, the heat started to creep in. The air down there gets thick and still, like it’s trying to trap every bit of sunlight.

Deep canyon walls, it started getting hot - we could see people slowing up in this exposed sections of trail in the heat

Vast openness of the canyons - we were stopping at every possible shade to rest and recover

We crossed the creek on a series of sturdy bridges—seven crossings in total, down from the original 94(!) before the trail was reengineered. These miles are some of the most scenic and meditative. The sound of water, the play of light on rock, the occasional splash to cool off—it was a beautiful stretch and a much-needed mental reset.

Eventually the canyon widened, the sun got stronger, and we approached Ribbon Falls, which you can detour to via a short creek crossing. We didn’t make the side trip this time (day-hike mode = focus), but if you’re not pressed for time, it’s a magical little waterfall tucked in a lush alcove.

Ribbon falls at the center (look for light green in the dark red)

We kept moving and passed Cottonwood Campground around mile 14, where we saw more hikers refueling and regrouping. Some were struggling—we shared electrolyte chews, snacks, and encouragement. That’s one of the best parts of long hikes like this: the trail community really shows up when people need it.

Maps showing for NorthRim hikers how much they've come down and the vice versa for us

So glad to see fish restoration in the colarado river

We had clouds rolling and wind - so the temps read about 84F- but felt like 95F with the heat and humidity

After Cottonwood, the trail tilted up more noticeably. The gradual incline became a sustained climb, and by the time we reached Manzanita Rest Area (formerly the Pumphouse), we were officially in “climb-out mode.” This is where things get serious.

The crumbling rocks were a reminder that we were starting to gain elevation again, as this was a reminder of what we saw in the south rim as we descended earlier in the day

From Manzanita to the North Rim, it's only 5.5 miles—but it gains over 4,000 feet, and the terrain doesn’t cut you any slack. We passed Roaring Springs, the water source for both rims, and started up the tight switchbacks carved right into the canyon walls. Some parts of the trail are literally blasted into sheer cliffs. It's stunning, and a little intimidating, but also impressively engineered. When you’re gasping for breath, it’s easy to forget you’re walking through a world-class geologic marvel.

The trails here were carved into the walls and blasted to make sections work- very well engineered

We crossed Redwall Bridge, climbed through the Supai Tunnel, and finally entered cooler air and pine forest. The change in environment was dramatic—red rock gave way to green, cactus to conifers. We’d gone from desert to alpine in a matter of hours.

Supai Tunnel

Red rocks were giving way to greener pastures and desert flowers

That final mile and a half was a slog. Legs heavy, packs sagging, the sun dipping lower. But eventually, we heard voices, saw people milling around the North Kaibab Trailhead, and realized we’d made it.

North Rim Arrival: Tired Legs, Full Hearts

We rolled into the North Rim just before 4 PM. Not going to lie—there were some high fives, a few groans, and a shared look of “what the hell did we just do?”

A view of Ponderosa pine was a reminder of home back in Washington state

We were dusty, sunburnt, and running low on snacks, but crossing the canyon in a day left us buzzing. It’s hard to explain how surreal it feels to stand on the opposite rim from where you started that morning. Everything about the canyon is overwhelming—in size, beauty, and effort—and walking across it just makes you feel small and strong at the same time.

Final Thoughts

Doing the Grand Canyon rim-to-rim in one day is not a casual outing, it’s a serious, intense, deeply memorable hike. You move through different ecosystems, climates, and rock layers. You meet strangers and become friends. You challenge your legs, lungs, and mental games.

I didn’t expect a last-minute Plan B to become one of my all-time favorite hikes. But here we are. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.