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Open Backpack - North Olympic Coast

Beautiful coast, nice group. We adjusted the itinerary to account for demanding conditions and total average fitness of the group. Tides, seaweed strewn craggy rocks, and overland traverse are no joke! Gorgeous shoreline and great camping. Glad to be with a group willing to take the pulse and adjust to keep everyone safe.

Anne Taufen Anne Taufen
June 09, 2025
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • This is really more of a scramble with bouldering through tidal conditions and overland traverse where the coast is not passable. the Custom Correct (98S) map for this route is absolutely essential, showing minimum tide heights for multiple rock formations along the coast, along with a current, accurate, and detailed tide chart to cross reference and route plan. approach from Shi Shi trailhead to descent to beach (via steps) is quite muddy in places, and stays so year-round, with a handful of spots where there is no choice other than through it.

    Rock outcroppings along this stretch of coast that are safe to traverse when the tide is low enough are still tricky in places - slick rocks that dry differently at different times and in different spots depending on mist and rain; craggy rocks that can catch a foot and get someone stuck as tide continues to change, and surf pounds; seaweed that is deceptively slippery and difficult to traverse lightly and comfortably. For the rocks closer to shore that stay dry regardless of tide, the going can be more of a true scramble/climb - requiring agility and communication/good reaction time. 

    we avoided hazardous conditions up and over the headlands at Point of the Arches/Father and Son which was a strong, prudent choice for this group. 

Met at South Tacoma park and ride 6 AM Friday; drove 5 in 3 cars to Ozette Ranger Station for 10 AM meetup. 

Shi Shi was gorgeous, sunny, and we had it almost entirely to ourselves on arrival Friday midday. Got a great campsite just south of Petroleum Creek. Determined together on Saturday morning that group fitness was not where it needed to be, to go up and over at Point of the Arches and Father and Son. Took a Plan B - hiked back out at Shi Shi, drove to Ozette Ranger Station, hiked back to the coast along the northerly Alava trail, then hiked north to the Ozette River and campsites. There were a couple of scramble sections on the coast and the choice to adjust the route was appropriate. Super campsite at N Ozette River and beautiful evening - heavy mist cleared to reveal bright sun on a rising tide and superb view up and down the coast to rock outcroppings, which are iconic and stunning on the North Olympic Coast. 

Fording the Ozette River requires getting wet, up to the knees, and we were glad to have water shoes. Thoughtful planning with maps and tide charts made this a very doable and enjoyable trip. Early start on Sunday to ford the river and get around a tricky outcropping was rewarded with smooth travel and a pre-lunch return to Ozette Ranger Station, just after 11 AM.

We still saw a lot of the coast, got some great miles in:

Friday - 3 miles Shi Shi trailhead to beach campsite

Saturday - 3 miles campsite back up to Shi Shi trailhead; 3 miles Ozette to Cape Alava; 2 miles Alava to Ozette River (8 miles)

Sunday - 2 miles Ozette River to Alava; 3 miles Alava to Ozette (5 miles)

16 miles total

Highlights: fabulous campfire first night on Shi Shi Beach (thank you Fletcher!) and gorgeous sunset at Ozette River after the thick fog cleared, while watching whales spout off the coast with our campsite neighbor. Bonus: the Makah museum in Neah Bay was closed on Friday, and when we changed our plan we were able to go on Saturday - it was great context for being in the area, and appreciating the depth and context and presence of the Makah people throughout this region.