Mount Hood/South Side

About 700 feet of steep, hard snow right at the end. 45-50 degrees toward the top.

There’s a little bit of a boot pack, but it disappears as the climb gets steeper. Be prepared to frontpoint up and face-in downclimb for the descent. 

Lots of human-caused icefall. I took a baseball-sized chunk to the arm. 

Another human factor to consider is other climbers. Lots of newer and/or unprepared climbers up there. Folks seem to routinely underestimate this mountain and get in over their heads. It can be unnerving and dangerous having someone above you who is not displaying good technique. I’d recommend a weekday over a weekend to mitigate some of this hazard, as well as picking a chute (especially Two o’clock Couloir) that’s less traveled. 

I’ve said this in previous trip reports, but I personally ally would t take basic students up this mountain. Ropes are not really much of an option because they clog up the chutes and cause a lot of hazard for other climbers. 

I’m always happy with two axes—a Sum’tec and a Quark work for me.