Mixup Peak/East Face

This was a private climb. We were convinced there were no other parties up there but we were wrong. By the time we were getting closer to the U notch from glacier, we noticed 5 more climbers topping out in the notch.

Started the approach at 7:45 AM, we were at the top of U notch around 11:30 after we dropped ice axs, crampons, pickets  in the moat (at the base of loose rock scramble). Scrambled around V notch to the start of the first pitch where we had to wait our turn to start climbing after the other two parties (one of 2 and the other one of 3) got on the route.

Pitch 1: started with the class 5 move and then became class 4 and we aimed for an achor about 30m straight up, by passing the ledge which takes you to the loose gulley  (you can spot this anchor while you are scrambling down from U notch).

Pitch 2: Consisted in uprotectable 4th class with downward facing rock (35 meters or so) but easy climbing in general. We pretty much climbed  a good portion of the rappel route and topped out at the rappel anchor at the top of the gulley where we coiled the ropes and started the scrambling portion to the plateau which took us at the base of the summit block and the amazing white sraircase. We scrambled doing an ascending traverse to the right mostly on solid grippy but downward  facing rock for about 500 ft until we found the belay station located about 30m below the summit block. This last pitch offered low-mid class 5 climbing with some reasonable protection. It's important to climb slightly right to a notch. There is a horn (with slings) while popping on the ridge which we leveraged to redirect left and protect the move over the airy step and the follower as well (in case of a pendulum).After the airy step there is one more class 5 move and then we topped out on the exposed summit.

After all 3 parties (7 climbers) made it on the summit we decided to pool our ropes for rappels to get everyone down safely. We did one single rope rappel from the summit, followed by a double rope rappel, followed by scrambling until we got back down to the rappel anchor located to the top of loose gulley we didn't climb. We did another double rope rappel from here to the top of V-notch, scrambled back to the top of U notch and did another double rope rappel which took us in a safe spot on snow (we grabbed what we had in the moat while we were rappeling).

We were back on snow arounf 8:15 PM and back to the cars around 11 PM.

We were thankful we had a tent setup waiting for us at Glacier resort in Marblemount to crash in it at midnight.

Pretty good climb overall with spectacular views from the summit.