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Trip Report    

Little Devil Peak

Wilderness scramble with awesome opportunity to see a receding glacier up front and personal.

  • Wed, Sep 7, 2016 — Tue, Sep 6, 2016
  • Little Devil Peak
  • Scrambling
  • Successful
  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • Trail to Monogram Lake in good condition. Above the lake is largely off trail and clearly black bear country. Until you exit lower slopes with some brush, it is a suitable place for loud and boisterous travel. 

As we were unable to obtain a permit for camp at Monogram Lake, ascended to the toe of the glacier to 6,000 ft and made camp there. Sites would be limited for a larger group together but found a good site for two tents on large flat granite slabs very near the glacial pond outflow making for a good overnight. When we arrived it was raining making life a little miserable but soon settled in to variable fog. In foggy conditions and unable to clearly see the route on the other side of the glacier, the next morning we opted to directly ascend from our camp mostly north to the shoulder below the ridge,  with a rising NW traverse high but remaining below the ridge, at times on large blocky granite benches till arriving directly below the summit. Route finding was fairly straight forward. 

Confirmed small register on summit which was wet and with few entries suggesting peak not often scrambled. Group was in good shape which was helpful given the first day gain with overnight packs.