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Kaleetan Peak/South Route

One way, July 13th, traverse of Kaleetan Peak via Snow Lakes trailhead, Snow Lake, Gem Lake, Chair Peak Lake, Melakwa Pass, Kaleetan Peak, south ridge of Kaleetan (outhouse route), Melakwa Lake, and Denny Creek trailhead. Total trip was ~4000' gain, ~5000' loss, and ~14 miles. Gem Lake and Chair Peak Lake were almost completely snow covered with pockets of water on surface of snow covering the lake. Took crampons but did not need them. Due to high temperatures everyone brought lots of water and used all of it (most were completely out by the time we reached Melakwa Lake). Reached south ridge from Melakwa Pass by descending slightly, then traversing to enter gulley that intersects south ridge just north of northern most bump of ~5680'. Once at base of gulley took rock ramp to right for ~40', then followed rock ramp up and left (estimated at ~120' of T4) that paralleled gulley's steep snow on left to finally reach ridge crest. Total trip time was ~11.5 hours with ~6 hours from Snow Lake trailhead to summit of Kaleetan. Most party members enjoyed a well deserved swim in Melakwa Lake.

 

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