Judi & Mary's Peaks

This was a reconfigured trip due to weather (original objective: Roosevelt-Kaleetan loop trip, dangerous due to wet weather leading up to trip). The trip actually included the t5-plus Mary-Bean traverse and the summit of Bean (this trifecta should be an available route/place option).

We left the Bean/Beverly TH at 8:30 AM, took the Beverly Turnpike trail to the SW "corner" of the South Spur of Judi, where we left the trail at the first large obvious rockfall/scree-field area off the uphill side of the trial. Proceeded up animal tracks in the scree to a prominent silver snag, which stands near the base of a rock gully-rib system (loose in spots, helmets required, rockfall diligence strictly required, T4-5 in places) which leads up to the (at times T5) pinnacles on the south summit rigde of Judi, most of which can be climbed, one of which is more questionable and can be most easily passed on its left side. Stayed on or quite near the hogsback of the Judi Ridge to the summit (no need to sidehill at any point).

Spent around 20 minutes each on the summits of Judi and Mary, nibbling snacks and hydrating and putting on sunscreen. Took the Mary-Bean traverse on the ridge festooned with T5 pinnacles. Assistant leader Jeremy Elmore dismounted from the pinnacles at the particularly airy "step-over the abyss" move about 3/4ths of the way along the traverse (this option should always be available and should never preclude a successful result on the traverse). Lunch and photos on Bean, where we signed the register. Dismounted via the ridge leading towards Earl and departed the ridge at the Bean-Earl saddle, which descends to the Bean Basin via a loose and grimy way-trail.

Arrived at car @ 4:00 PM. Total time excluding longer breaks about 7 hours. Margaritas at the El Caporal Bar in Cle Elum.