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Trip Report    

Ingalls Peak/East Ridge

Party of 2 on July 30. Left trailhead at 5am, started climbing by 9:30. Make sure to get out of the approach gully and take a ramp that leads left and around a corner to the right to the base of the climb. Other parties have continued too far up the gully and had to backtrack. We used 2 37m twin ropes so did the climb in 7 pitches and reached the summit about 5pm. With neither of us ever having been to Ingalls we didn't know exactly where the South basic route was and the route descriptions weren't clear. Just head about 150 horizontal feet more northwest direction to find the top of the basic route to rap down. We thought the directions were to follow the ridge down 150 vertical feet and left (which does work) and there were cairns marking that direction. But it puts you in a much longer sketchy downclimb scramble to a rap station at a tree you have to scramble up to. You can maybe do a double 60 rap, but with twin 37s we had to use an intermediate rap station which wasn't visible at first. Lost a couple hours getting down that route instead of rapping down the basic route.