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Colchuck Peak/North Buttress Couloir

Climb date: Saturday, April 30, 2016 Followed a week of melt/freeze. Had good freezing temps the night before.

Gate closed. Hiked road. Was snow free. Snow on trail starting at TH. Lake frozen. Yay. Current reports on CC (as of 5/05) suggest the lake is now a no-go. Also noted that work is being done to prep the road for opening.

Initial couloir was great. Firm enough to get purchase, yet soft enough to feel confident soloing w/o a rope.

North side was similar. However, beneath the firm crust the snow was sugary. Evidently the melt/freeze cycle wasn't as effective as I was hoping.

Roped up on the north side. Used rock pro consisting of a half set of nuts, cams 2-.4, and a single pink tricam. Could carry less, but this enabled our running belay to cover more ground. Placed three pickets, but given the snow they weren't good for much.

Fun route!!! Totally worth hiking the road to be up in that area without the crowds!

 

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