Colchuck Peak/East Route

Colchuck Peak/East Route

From:Stephen Sugiyama

The party consisted of the climb leader, 3 rope leads, and 6 Basic students.

We left the trailhead at 4:30 a.m. under the mid-June pre-dawn light. The snow started just above the lake below the Colchuck glacier. At the early hour the snow was crusty and most put on crampons here, although some waited until they reached the top of the moraine.

The scramble from Colchuck Col to the summit was straightforward with only small patches of snow. We arrived at the top at 9:40 a.m., just as the clouds closed in and obscured the views. We plunge-stepped in crampons to descend the Colchuck glacier and arrived back at the trailhead at 2:00 p.m.

Special Note: The party size limit in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness is 12 but the limit in the Enchantments Permit Area is 8. The penalty for exceeding the party size limit is $225.

Gear: Crampons, ice axes, and helmets. We carried a light 30 m rope but didn't need it.