Cashmere Mountain

Trip Date: 06/14 to 06/15/2014
Party Size:4

This trip was originally scheduled as a 3-day Intermediate Mountaineering climb of the Twin Sisters Traverse. We changed our destination to Cashmere due to the weather.

Day 1 (Saturday): Leisurely approach to Little Caroline Lake (about 4 hours). Cool Icicle breeze kept us comfortable as we hiked the many switch backs. Vegetation was green and lush and many wildflowers are blooming. Trail is 50% snow covered above about 6,000'. Encountered two independent parties that had turned around on Cashmere summit attempt this day, due to high winds blowing them off their feet. Camped just above Little Caroline Lake.

Day 2 (Sunday): At 6 AM it was raining with some large, wet snowflakes mixed in. We decided to stay in bed and wait and see if the weather improved. 7:30 AM the precipitation had effectively stopped so we decided to get up and make a summit attempt, weather and conditions permitting. We left camp at 8:45 AM. We ascended the trail from Little Caroline Lake and headed toward Windy Pass. Prior to Windy Pass, we left the trail at elevation 6600' and dropped ~50' into the basin below. We cross the basin and ascended grassy slopes in a northeasterly direction, eventually picking up a sandy boot track along the top of the (windy) ridge leading to the 8000' saddle. Used crampons, ice axes, and helmets to traverse north side of Cashmere at about elevation 8200', mostly on snow (30-35 degree slopes) with a couple patches of rock to go below. Snow traverse appeared to have cliffs far below, in places, so I don't necessarily think this is route is really meant to be done as a scramble when there's still snow. Ascended easterly most gully of north ridge directly to the summit. This gully-ridge was slightly loose class 3 rock. Some of the rock was still plastered with hoar frost from a previous storm. We were on the summit from about 1-1:30 PM. Packed up camp from 4:00-4:30 PM. We enjoyed cloud breaks and intermittent views throughout the day. There was very light precipitation off and on all day. Sometimes snow pellets, sometimes a fine mist - but never enough to really get wet. Back at cars 7:45 PM.