Trip Report
Basic Rock Climb - Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks
Bluebird day on Unicorn, route is in good condition
- Fri, May 30, 2025
- Basic Rock Climb - Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks
- Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks
- Climbing
- Successful
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- Road suitable for all vehicles
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Trail to Snow Lake is still mostly snow covered, with the trail melting out in just a few places. Snow was firm in the morning, but we were able to get through with just boots. We put crampons on at the lake and wore them up to the base of the summit block. Snowshoes were not necessary. A couple of punchy spots but not bad.
The moat at the top of the second steep gully is opening up. There is still a snow bridge over it but I would not recommend it - there is a lot of air underneath it and it is only a few feet thick. If you move to climbers' left, you can climb down into the moat and get on the rock to scramble out. We were able to do this without too much issue.

Some holes opening up on the final traverse to the summit block, but they are easy to navigate around. We chose to traverse below them. The snow over here was quite mushy as it's in the sun all morning.

Rock route is in good shape, snow-free. Good rappel anchor is established on the rock horn. Our group climbed the two 5.6 routes, "The Roof" and "The Classic". Having both routes going at once saves a little time.
We glissaded much of the descent. The last gully to the lake has some debris in it (tree branches and some rocks), so some glissaded cautiously while others chose to plunge step it.
Left the parking lot at 6:20am and returned to trailhead at 2:30pm. The early start was nice as it was getting quite hot in the afternoon. Beautiful day with a great crew!

Sarah Holt