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Basic Rock Climb - South Early Winter Spire/South Arête

Pay attention to the new bolted rap route. Bring 70M rope

Tony Tsuboi Tony Tsuboi
July 17, 2025
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • Snow is all gone. Wildflowers are probably just past peak but there are still plenty there. I didn't see much if any running water in the upper basin. Things are pretty dry. Bugs were bad, enough that I wore long pants and used bug dope.  Parts of the old approach were closed for restoration. Now you practically hike to the base of the SW Rib, then cut over to ascend to the South Arete start.

I don't have a lot to add that's not already covered. HOWEVER, there are new bolted anchors for rappel. Actually, at least three of them just past the top out of the roped sections. Look to the RIGHT as you come up.  You'll see at least one of them. I don't know why they needed to put three of them in...

We launched off from the top most rap station into trees.  Prob a better choice would be the lower second or third set of bolts.  Our 60M rope came up about 4' short of the second rap station.  IF you only have a 60M rope, look for the lower bolted stations. They also don't drop into trees. Better yet, BRING a 70M rope for the rappels.  IF doing single rope rappels, the second rappel lands on a ledge quite a ways away from the 3rd rappel station. It's an airy tiptoe around a bulge to get over there, and a 60M rope will just barely make it. Again, a 70M rope would be a better choice. The third rap lands  about 100' below the route start and on the other side from the approach. A short scramble up will get you back to... goats licking your pack.

Bad decision on my part was to climb in approach shoes. I've either gotten fat or my climbing abilities have diminished (both are true), but I'll be wearing climbing shoes the next time I do this route.