Basic Alpine Climb - Whitehorse Mountain/Northwest Shoulder

Trip Report

Whitehorse Mountain Trip Report – April 24-26, 2026.

We were a group of 7 Mountaineers on this overnight trip. This trip had a lot of interest by Mountaineers. I am sorry that I couldn't accommodate everyone. We would have needed 7 or 8 groups to fit everyone onto a trip!   


Obligatory photo of the mountain from the gas station

Looking back at last years trip report. The photo from the gas station looks so similar! Haha. I spot a few changes, it was two calendar weeks later so the red trees had more leaves, and the green trees had filled in more. 

Close up view of the snow and summit block

This was Scott and my second time coming out to attempt Whitehorse Peak. We came in 2025 and it turned out to be a great conditioner. 

 

Hiking along Niderpum Trail

Took a different approach route this time, didn't get off trail (around 3,070 ft) and go up the avalanche gulley. Stayed on the summer trail until it ended. Then continued up until 4,200 where we then made the high-traverse across the slope over towards Lone Tree Pass. This route is great and I highly recommend. I was surprised to not find any tracks on Peakbagger that had taken this route. You'll find pink flagging all the way along this route and even up high on a tree near the base of High Pass.

 

We didn't encounter bigger snow patches until 3,486 feet. It was steep in the section from 3,400 to 4,200 but it's not as exposed as it is if you go up the alternate route. Last year we went up the alternate route, and I much preferred this route for the way up and down! We kicked steps in the snow, took turns rotating and eventually made our way over to the pass. Then made camp just after the pass. Leveled out snow platforms for our tents.

 

Here's a map of the route we took. The purple line was this trip in 2026 and the blue line is the trip from 2025. 

Morning light along Lone Tree Pass

Went for the summit sat morning, leaving camp at 5:30 am. Less snow this year on the backside down to the water crossing, then made our way back up the slopes to High Pass. The rocky ridge above High Pass were snow free, which was good to not pose an avalanche hazard. The snow was firm and great for crampons. The slopes felt steep for sure.

High Pass - to left of round spire at top of photo. Pink route flagging on tree branch

 

We roped up after High Pass and traversed onto the glacier with a sidestep, Scott took the lead kicking in steps through this section. There were some recent slides that had released snow off the steep rock from the rain/snow storm Wed/Thursday prior to our trip. Everything was still firm and we were not sinking in at all.

Traversing off of High Pass, kick stepping and face in

Rope team moving across So-Bahli-Ahi Glacier at Whitehorse Mountain

 Snow from recent slides - after snow/rain that fell on Wed & Thursday right before our trip


Near the summit rock at Whitehorse Mountain

Exploring the bergschrund and options

Made it to the base of the summit block. It was covered in snow/ice. Scott checked out the bergschrund, it was holding and he did find a soft step or two. Had extra set of tools, pro, ice screws. Decided to not climb to the summit as it didn't appear that the screws would hold, or that the snow/ice was thick enough. Scott described the snow as Styrofoam like feeling. Pickets may have been an option up higher? It wasn't a steep snow walk up or clear of snow for a rock route as we hoped. Above the bergschrund, it was ice and rock to the summit making this last part an ice climb route.

 Our group "summit" photo at Whitehorse Mountain

We made the decision to back off and not go for this last stretch. Everyone was happy with the choice. We enjoyed a snack and views of the surrounding peaks. Then headed back to camp. 


Heading down from High Pass. A short section of rock was exposed but the rest was steep snow.

Stopped at the water crossing around 4,400 and we all carried 3-4 liters back up to camp so we didn't have to melt snow for dinner and drinking water. Met a few other parties/couples along the route on both days. Great to see others out there too.

 

Back at camp ate warm dinners and I stayed warmer in the tent on our second night. A Nalgene hot water bottle was awesome on night 1!  

 Dug out platforms in the snow along Lone Tree Pass for our camp

Headed out from camp in the morning back to the TH. The slopes under Lone Tree Pass were soft as this aspect gets morning snow. It was perfect and we made quicker time crossing them, than on the way in when it was firm. Retraced our steps back to the car. It was quick in the snow on the way out.


Enjoyed a delicious group lunch at Stilly Diner in Arlington. Their milkshakes were good and the potato options - fries, tater tots and sweet potato fires! 

Thank you to the group for a wonderful trip!  There were many enjoyable parts - from sharing supplies, boiling lots of water, camaraderie and enjoying the beautiful alpine together. 


GPX Track: Ascent of Whitehorse Mountain on 2026-04-25 - Peakbagger.com

Map