Trip Report
Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak/South Side
Great weather and group for a successful outing
Craig Taylor
- Sun, May 27, 2018
- Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak/South Side
- Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks
- Climbing
- Successful
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- Road suitable for all vehicles
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Snow from parking lot. Moat at the top of the final gully at the notch is completely melted out and not passable. If you go climbers left from base of melted out moat there is an easy dirt + rock ramp which allows access to the ridge. Crampons were necessary for the final gully climb to the notch as there was hard snow in places. Snowshoes were not needed.
Met at the trailhead 7:00AM and got started at about 7:20AM to fantastic weather with clear and almost cloudless skies. Temp was mid 30's but very pleasant in the sun and was great hiking weather.
Reached the base of the unicorn prow by about 10:30AM to rope up and climb. Two climbers chose to lead a mid 5th class route with the final lead climber setting up a handline using the dead but so far still sturdy tree at the top. There is a nearby slung horn with rappel rings which we opted not to use but will likely be the primary future rappel station.
Rest of the students + remaining leaders used prusik system on the fixed line to ascend. A couple of other climbers from another party had recently rappelled and we had the top to ourselves for a while. A group of four was a little behind us and we rappeled after getting some time to ourselves in the sun on the prow.
About 12:45 PM we got to the base of the climbing route and started our descent. We found a great downclimb when we arrived at the moat area so no need for another rappel or handline. Descent in the gullies included good plunge stepping with options for glissading as well and we reached the car about 3:30PM.
When leaving the park given the nice weather and long weekend there was about a 4 mile backup to get into the park. It paid to get there at 7AM for our climb!