Trip Report
Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak
current conditions: road closed, mostly solid snow from snow lake on, moat partially opening.
- Sat, May 9, 2026
- Basic Alpine Climb - Unicorn Peak
- Unicorn, Foss, Boundary & Stevens Peaks
- Climbing
- Successful
- Road suitable for all vehicles
current conditions: road closed, mostly solid snow from snow lake on, moat partially opening.
we had a mellow trip, very easy going. snow was not bad. moat presented a little bit of challenge - scrambled it up, rapped down.
on the summit block, i did the scramble route(mostly class 2/3, with a couple of 4th class, maybe 5.0 moves at the top)
everyone else played on the face which had a few mid-5th moves. asa led it, so did t. both crushed it.
asa led up so fast, that even though i scrambled, he beat me to the top!
11.57mi 3591' gain total (including 6.07mi 294' gain rt on the road)
0:17 road to trailhead
4:28 trailhead to summit block
1:52 climbing and descending summit block
(including 0:11 gearing up, 0:10 scrambling up,
1:25 summit stay and rapping, 0:08 transition )
3:11 summit block to trailhead (including 0:31 rapping the moat)
0:40 trailhead to car (including 0:50 transition)
10:30 car to car
equipment: ice axe, crampons, harness, 50m rope( rap requires slightly more than a single 30m rope. previous trip used a 37m and had much to spare)
equipment brought, but not used: picket, shovel
Brett Dyson