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Basic Alpine Climb - Tower Mountain & Golden Horn

Very hot and dry approach. Water available in a few spots up to Cutthroat pass. Dry all the way to Upper Snowy Lake where we camped. 4 hrs to lake. Golden Horn has a very simple approach. From Lake, aim for the low notch in the ridge and find a climbers path that follows the ridge line more or less all the way to the notch to the left of the summit tower. Traverse north on the west side to a gully. There are two, take the left one 200ft to the summit block. Mostly class 3 kitty litter. From the base of the summit block, travers up and right 20ft to a wide ledge. Lead up aiming for a fixed sling, and gain the big ledge below the summit mantle move. Final move takes a few thoughts to figure out. There is a rap anchor behind the summit boulder. a 1.0 and .5 C4 is all that is needed. 30m is sufficient.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles
  • HOT and dry.  Lots of PCT folks and backpackers at camp.  Lake is quite warm now.

 

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