Trip Report
Basic Alpine Climb - South Early Winter Spire/Southwest Couloir
A very pleasant day climbing an attractive mountain in a beautiful area.
Stephen Sugiyama
- Sat, Apr 26, 2025
- Basic Alpine Climb - South Early Winter Spire/Southwest Couloir
- South Early Winter Spire/Southwest Couloir
- Climbing
- Successful
- Road suitable for all vehicles
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The trailhead parking lot was plowed the and privy was open.
On the way to and from the route the snow condition varied and we switched between boots, crampons, and snowshoes.
The climbing route wasn't in the best shape, and it will only get worse as the snow continues to melt out. There were a few stretches where we had to climb over loose rock in crampons.
On the first Saturday following the spring reopening of the North Cascades Highway (SR 20) our party of six climbed the Southwest Couloir of South Early Winter Spire near Washington Pass. We left the trailhead a little before 7 a.m. The weather was lovely: clear skies, low winds, and cool temperatures.
Photo: Robert McCadden
In a small stand of trees near the couloir entrance we roped up and headed out. We organized as two teams of three, each using half of a 60 m rope. We climbed up to the top of the couloir in one long running belay.
We gave the giant cornice at the top a wide berth. After a short rock scramble we were on top by noon.
There were terrific views all around. Since the weather was pleasant we spent extra time relaxing and enjoying the snow-covered North Cascades mountain scenery.
Photo: Nathan Edwards
After the respite we headed down. Partly due to the crummy conditions in the couloir and partly to provide security on the steep snow, we ended up rigging three double-rope rappels and one single-rope rappel. This took considerable time with a lot of standing around but we eventually all got down without incident.
Photo: Robert McCadden
It was a great day outdoors and we got to practice some different skills in an alpine environment. We got back to the cars around 7 p.m.
Gear: We brought two 60 m ropes, four pickets, and a small rack. We used a two pickets, a few cams, a few nuts/hexes, and slung a couple trees.