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Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Shuksan/Sulphide Glacier

Thick smoke and flies were the greatest adversities. Large parties should consider bringing extra ropes to leapfrog rappels.

Marko Pavela Marko Pavela
August 08, 2017
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • Route is in great shape.  Abundant snow run off and a good composting toilet at the lower bivy site ~6,200'.

     

5 hours to camp at the lower bivy site, through thick smoke and horrid flies.
We first attemped to camp at the higher bivy site, but the toilet was full/sealed and there were no options for running snow melt.
~ 3 hours to the start of the rock, at approximately 8,550'.
~ 2 hours to the summit.
~ 5 hours down from summit to start of snow. We were 7 and the party did 5 rappels, plus a fixed line down steep snow. HIGHLY RECOMMEND extra ropes for larger parties to leapfrog rappels.
~ 1.5 hours down from start of snow to camp.
We were permitted for a second night, and chose to stay. Many from the party were worn out and it would have been a nasty slog out.
~3 hours down from camp to the trailhead.

GPX files and more beta available upon request.