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Trip Report    

Basic Alpine Climb - Black Peak/South Ridge

The climb is mostly a high end scramble. Very enjoyable and can be done in one day.

  • Road suitable for all vehicles

Since I was not familiar with the area or route, I chose to do the climb as a 2 day.  And what a relaxed 2 day trip it was.  3 hrs to wing lake and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the sun.
There is plenty of beta out there on the route and we found it straight forward and very obvious.  The steep snow took us most of the way to the saddle and the annoying dirt and scree was not at all bad.  There is a trail and cairns all the way to the bench before you make the traverse back east.  Yes, there was some loose rock, but we found the class 3 gully to be fun and quick.  Take the ledge as far as you can east and the start of the class 4 half pitch is obvious.
One could scramble this section but with all the loose junk there, I felt that placing a few pieces was a good idea.  Pink and Brown Tri-cam, .5 and 1.0 C4 were plenty and solid.
Rapping the route would be a bad idea due to loose rock, so we all down climbed the fixed line and the last person was on belay from below and cleaned the pieces.

3.0 hrs to camp, 2.5 hrs camp to summit.  Time down and out was about the same so this could be easily done as a nice one day climb.

 

 

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