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Alpine Scramble - Guye Peak/North Route

We had a beautiful day on Guye with snow conditions that were variable but less than ideal.

Placeholder Contact Profile Fritz Klein
April 25, 2026
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • The snow was hard and icy between about 4200' and 4600'.  We were able to use steps from earlier days when it had apparently been less icy.  Above the saddle, the snow conditions were much better.

    Even though I knew to expect much less snow than usual, I was surprised by how much rock scrambling we had to do.  I've done spring trips on Guye in the past in drizzly weather, but if today had been wet I would have turned around because of the wet rock.

10 scramblers started from the Alpental parking lot shortly after 8:00.  We encountered patches of snow right away, and we crossed the stream on snow with no problem (I'm not sure how many in the group even knew there was a stream there).  From a bit above the stream crossing for another 600 vertical feet or so, there was no snow at all.

At about 4400' we encountered a steep icy slope with some exposure.  After pondering the situation for a while, the three leaders spent some time improving the steps made by previous parties, and punching in some good self-belay holds for 150 yards or so, after which this section went fine for everyone.

Snow conditions were better above the saddle.  On the first steep slope we practiced walking in balance with switchbacks.  We visited the summit one or two at a time and enjoyed the views on this gorgeous day.

On the descent, we found only one place for a glissade, which was unfortunately short and bumpy.  We did a bit of self-arrest practice there too.

The steep icy slope that had concerned me on the ascent had softened up quite a bit and was not a problem.  The rest of the trip went fine.