Warrior/Southeast Summit

A 7 mile approach to Boulder Camp plus another 2 miles to the summit via trail, snow, possible scree, and a 4th-low 5th short rock pitch, ending with an easy scramble to the summit. Glorious views of the seldom visited north face of Mount Constance. Be alert for rockfall in the gully between the south and north peaks. Times: 4-5 hr trailhead to camp, 5-6 hr camp to summit.

getting there

From US 101 near Sequim Bay State Park, turn west onto Luella Road  and then left onto Palo Alto Road. In 6 miles, turn right onto Forest Road  2880 and then turn left onto Forest Road 2870 in 1.7 miles. In 9 miles, reach the large parking area just past the Dungeness River Bridge (2,500 ft).

APPROACH

From 2500 ft trailhead, trail goes southwest 1 mi to junction with Royal Basin Trail. Take left fork across log bridge, passing Camp Handy (3100 ft) at 3.2 mi, and arriving at Boulder Shelter (yes, it has both) at 6.3 mi (4950 ft).

ASCENT ROUTE

From Boulder Shelter, go south 2+ mi on Dungeness Trail. Leave trail before crossing major stream flowing from Warrior/Inner Constance cirque. Climb east up steep forest, then steep open meadow, then talus, staying north of stream bed (approx 4750 ft). At about 6200 ft, reach flat saddle area just under the twin peaks of Warrior. Follow prominent couloir north-northeast to saddle (about 7000 ft). Couloir can be snow filled until late in season and can be icy in cold weather.

The higher peak (the southeast) is to the right. Climb steep snow, then rock, on its NW side. The first 20 ft to 50 ft (depending on snow level) of rock is difficult, and the rock is not of highest quality. Short scramble leads to the summit and glorious views of the seldom visited north face of Mount Constance.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Seattle to Trailhead 2.5
Trailhead to Camp 4-5 2,450
Camp to Summit 5-6 2,350
Summit to Camp 2.5
Camp to Trailhead 3-4

EQUIPMENT

One rope for the party; ice axe and crampons in cold weather.

NOTES

Dungeness River Road closed in 1999. Check with rangers.

Alternate approach (scenic but longer) is via Upper Big Quilcene Trail to Marmot Pass, then down to Boulder Shelter (6.7 mi). A first rate alpine experience in a lovely area.

Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountain calls it class 3, but the rock above the 7000 ft saddle is more like class 4. Plan to rope here for one short pitch. A single light rope should be enough.

Rockfall is a problem in the gully between the south and north peaks of Warrior. Keep the party together.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 2
  • Length: 18.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,000 ft
  • 7,300 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Townsend
  • Green Trails Tyler Peak No. 136
  • USGS Mt Deception
Activities

Upcoming Activities



Basic Alpine Climb - Warrior/Southeast Summit

Climbing Trip
Climb NW & SE Warrior Peaks, Cloudy Peak, Alphabet Ridge and The Brave.
Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 2
Sat, Jun 30, 2018 - Sun, Jul 1, 2018
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants on waitlist 0 leaders
Registration closed May 31
Olympia Branch
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