Tantalus Traverse

A rugged traverse with mixed travel on rock, snow, and ice just northwest of Squamish, British Columbia, Canada. The traverse is 22-27 miles with 12,000-17,000 feet of elevation gain.

getting there

Drive to Squamish on BC-99 and take Squamish Valley Road northwest to access trailheads that enter Tantalus Provincial Park.


Sigurd Creek Trailhead

Use this trailhead for a north to south traverse, generally the best direction for this traverse. The trail ends at the lateral moraine below Pelion and Ossa Mountains. It's ~8 hours to the Pelion/Zenith Col. If descending from Pelion Mountain, look for markers traversing skiers right from a boulder field into the forest. A helicopter drop off at Pelion/Zenith Col is another option.

Lake Lovely water

The approach from (or return to) this trailhead requires crossing the Squamish River by canoe, water survey cable car, Tyrolean Traverse, or hiring a ferry or seaplane. The trail heads along the river bank from the canoe landing up to Lake Lovely Water and the Alpine Club of Canada's "Tantalus Hut."

Traverse Route

Suggested Itinerary

Day 1: Travel to the Pelion/Zenith Col.
Day 2: Travel from the Pelion/Zenith Col over Mount Tantalus and Mount Dione to Haberl Hut. It's ~14 hrs with rock climbing difficulty to low Class 5, and some glacier travel and rappelling. There are options to climb Mount Tantalus,  Pelion Mountain, Serratus, and Alpha Mountain.
Day 3: Travel over Serratus's West Face, Alpha Mountain's Southwest Side, and descend east ridge Alpha Mountain's East Ridge to Lake Lovely Water It's ~12 hrs of travel.
Day 4: Hike out from Lake Lovely Water and then to Squamish River. It's ~6 miles and  3,000 feet of elevation loss.


Standard glacier travel gear and rappel gear. 

small rack .75- 2 


  • Alpine Select: Climbs in Southwest British Columbia & Northern Washington by Kevin McLane (High Col Press 2001).
  • Exploring the Coast Mountains on Skis, 3rd ed. by John Baldwin (John Baldwin 2009).
  • Scrambles in Southwestern British Columbia by Matt Gunn (Cairn Publishing 2005).
  • A Guide to Climbing & Hiking in Southwestern British Columbia by Bruce Fairly (Gordon Soules Book Publishers Ltd 1993).

Information for Leaders

Considerations for travel to Canada

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: July, August
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
  • Length: 24.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 15,000 ft
  • Land Manager: Tantalus Provincial Park
  • Parking Permit Required: see Land Manager
  • Recommended Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
  • CNTS Cheakamus River 92G/14
Trip Reports

This is a list of titles that represent the variations of trips you can take at this route/place. This includes side trips, extensions and peak combinations. Not seeing a title that fits your trip? Log in and send us updates, images, or resources.

  • Tantalus Enchainment
  • Mount Tantalus
  • Mount Dione
  • Serratus Mountain
  • Zenith Mountain
  • Serratus Mountain
  • Alpha Mountain
  • Pelion Mountain
  • Ossa Mountain

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