Mount Logan/Banded Glacier

GETTING THERE

Take I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon, then go east on SR-20 (North Cascades Highway) to Marblemount. Sign in and get permit at Marblemount Ranger Station. Continue east on SR-20 to Colonial Creek Campground.

APPROACH

Follow Thunder Creek Trail for 9 miles to junction with Fisher Creek Trail. Hike about 3 miles on Fisher Creek Trail to just past a good log bridge with a handrail over stream that drains lake at 5,160 ft. Hike up this drainage to camp at lake. After turning off Fisher Creek Trail, stay close to stream on ascent to basin.

ASCENT ROUTE

From camp, ascend south-southeast to low point on ridge (possibly Christmas Tree Col); may need to rope up for steep snow or short glacier segment. From col, drop down to Banded Glacier and ascend to the Banded-Douglas Col, then climb snow to the summit. 1.5-2 hr on glacier. A large bergshrund at the top of the glacier is traversed on the left. Follow snow and rock to summit block. Some class 4 climbing is required to reach a small summit area.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment.

NOTES

This climb is 42 miles round trip. It should only be attempted by very strong parties if planning to do it in three days. Most parties would prefer to do it in four days. Not recommended in late season. A large bergscrund develops at the top of the glacier. Also, in late season, there is more loose rock, ice, and exposure.

An alternate route, via the Fremont Glacier, may be done for Basic Alpine credit. Its approach is from either Park Creek Pass or up the Thunder Creek Trail to near Park Creek Pass. North Cascades National Park has a party limit of 6 in this area.

information for leaders

Courses, paid clinics, staff-led programs, and course field trips require a Commercial Use Authorization. The Park typically accepts applications for 2-year CUAs  through mid-March each year, and CUA's are activity-specific. Please contact info@mountaineers.org if you would like to apply for a CUA for a field trip or paid clinic for an activity we do not already have a CUA for. Please follow all Mountaineers group guidelines when leading trips or courses in North Cascades National Park. 

Notes:

• Leaders are responsible for securing backcountry permits or other required permits even if  we have a CUA.
• Leaders must have all relevant CUAs with them in paper or electronic copy to show Parks Staff as requested. 
• All Hiking course field trips or paid clinics must have a First aid and CPR certified leader. Current (non-expired) certificates must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
• All mountaineering field trips or paid clinics must have a WFR-certified leader and a leader with documented climbing certifications (an AMGA certification OR Mountaineers climb leader with a recent resume of training and experience). Both qualifications must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip

View list of current North Cascades CUAs

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 5, Basic Glacier Climb, Basic Experience Climb
• Length: 42.0 mi
• High Point: 9,087 ft

• Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
• Parking Permit Required: None
• Recommended Party Size: 6
• Maximum Party Size: 6
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6