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Mount Fury/Southeast Glacier


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Mount Fury/Southeast Glacier

A fun multi-day glacier climb with a mix of terrain and conditions in the heart of the Northern Pickets Range. This route has sections of snow and glacier ranging from 20 to 40 degrees and travel across Class 3 to Class 5 rock. All approaches involve cross-country travel through one of the most remote wilderness areas in Washington's North Cascades.

Approach

All approaches are strenuous and technical, each with its own challenges.  The most common approaches are:

  • Big Beaver Trail to either Access Creek or via Eiley-Wiley Ridge
  • Little Beaver Trail to Whatcom Peak and Perfect Pass
  • Hannegan Pass to Easy Ridge and Perfect Pass
  • Terror Basin to Picket Pass

ASCENT ROUTE

From Luna Col, scramble and follow the ridge across Class 3 terrain towards Fury, through many short ups and downs.  Descend and traverse heather slopes on the south side of the ridge to the southeast glacier, approximately 6.700’ elevation.  Ascend the right side of the glacier, to more gentle slopes before ascending steeper snow with a possible bergshrund crossing.

 DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route, or if returning via Terror Basin, a possible route on the southern ridge to return you to Picket Pass.

notes

  • Allow a week for this exceptionally remote climb.

information for leaders

Courses, paid clinics, staff-led programs, and course field trips require a Commercial Use Authorization. The Park typically accepts applications for 2-year CUAs  through mid-March each year, and CUA's are activity-specific. Please contact info@mountaineers.org if you would like to apply for a CUA for a field trip or paid clinic for an activity we do not already have a CUA for. Please follow all Mountaineers group guidelines when leading trips or courses in North Cascades National Park. 

Notes:

  • Leaders are responsible for securing backcountry permits or other required permits even if  we have a CUA.
  • Leaders must have all relevant CUAs with them in paper or electronic copy to show Parks Staff as requested. 
  • All Hiking course field trips or paid clinics must have a First aid and CPR certified leader. Current (non-expired) certificates must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
  • All mountaineering field trips or paid clinics must have a WFR-certified leader and a leader with documented climbing certifications (an AMGA certification OR Mountaineers climb leader with a recent resume of training and experience). Both qualifications must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip

View list of current North Cascades CUAs

Photo by Rob Busack on July 21, 2023, from Luna.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Strenuous
  • Length: 32.0 mi
  • 8,288 ft
  • Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6
Map
  • USGS Mt Challenger
  • USGS Mt Prophet
  • Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
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