Mount Fury/Southeast Glacier

A fun multi-day glacier climb with a mix of terrain and conditions in the heart of the Northern Pickets Range. This route has sections of snow and glacier ranging from 20 to 40 degrees and travel across Class 3 to Class 5 rock. All approaches involve cross-country travel through one of the most remote wilderness areas in Washington's North Cascades.


All approaches are strenuous and technical, each with its own challenges.  The most common approaches are:

  • Big Beaver Trail to either Access Creek or via Eiley-Wiley Ridge
  • Little Beaver Trail to Whatcom Peak and Perfect Pass
  • Hannegan Pass to Easy Ridge and Perfect Pass
  • Terror Basin to Picket Pass


From Luna Col, scramble and follow the ridge across Class 3 terrain towards Fury, through many short ups and downs.  Descend and traverse heather slopes on the south side of the ridge to the southeast glacier, approximately 6.700’ elevation.  Ascend the right side of the glacier, to more gentle slopes before ascending steeper snow with a possible bergshrund crossing.


Descend the climbing route, or if returning via Terror Basin, a possible route on the southern ridge to return you to Picket Pass.


  • Allow a week for this exceptionally remote climb.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Strenuous
  • Length: 32.0 mi
  • 8,288 ft
  • Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6
  • USGS Mt Challenger
  • USGS Mt Prophet
  • Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
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