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Dorado Needle/Southwest Buttress


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Dorado Needle/Southwest Buttress

A 13-pitch, 5.7, Grade III+ intermediate alpine rock climb with snow to 35 degrees in the North Cascades. Times: 2-3 days, 4-7 hours from high camp.

Getting There

Drive I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon, then east on SR 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Marblemount. At Marblemount, and turn right onto Cascade River Road. Follow it to a large parking area on the right at about mile mark 20 and elevation 2,100 ft.

information for leaders

Courses, paid clinics, staff-led programs, and course field trips require a Commercial Use Authorization. The Park typically accepts applications for 2-year CUAs  through mid-March each year, and CUA's are activity-specific. Please contact info@mountaineers.org if you would like to apply for a CUA for a field trip or paid clinic for an activity we do not already have a CUA for. Please follow all Mountaineers group guidelines when leading trips or courses in North Cascades National Park. 

Notes:

  • Leaders are responsible for securing backcountry permits or other required permits even if  we have a CUA.
  • Leaders must have all relevant CUAs with them in paper or electronic copy to show Parks Staff as requested. 
  • All Hiking course field trips or paid clinics must have a First aid and CPR certified leader. Current (non-expired) certificates must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
  • All mountaineering field trips or paid clinics must have a WFR-certified leader and a leader with documented climbing certifications (an AMGA certification OR Mountaineers climb leader with a recent resume of training and experience). Both qualifications must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip

View list of current North Cascades CUAs

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Length: 12.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,000 ft
  • 8,440 ft
  • Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
Map
  • USGS Forbidden Peak
  • USGS Eldorado Peak
  • Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
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