Corteo Peak/Southwest Ridge

getting there

Drive SR-20 (North Cascades Highway) to Rainy Pass (52 miles east of Marblemount). Park at the rest area on the south side (4,855 ft).

APPROACH

Hike the trail past Lake Ann. Stay on trail 2 miles to Heather Pass (6,080 ft). Continue west and across talus, passing to the south of Lewis Lake. Follow a trail or snow to the east moraine of the Lewis Glacier at ~6,400 ft. Camp at either Lewis Lake or on heather benches north of the moraine.

ASCENT ROUTE

Follow the top of the moraine to the Lewis Glacier. Ascend southeast bearing left at top to a notch on ridge at 7,500 ft. Follow the ridge west to a notch and down climb 400 feet (on dirt or snow) to the cirque under Corteo Peak’s West Face. Reach Corteo Peak’s Southwest Ridge at a large notch (one-third up from the ridge col) via an easy gully. Follow the ridge to summit. Climbing is exposed Class 3 with a few Class 4 moves.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Standard alpine equipment.

NOTES

• This climb can be done in one day with a car camp at Rainy Pass. Plan on 10-12 hr.

information for leaders

Courses, paid clinics, staff-led programs, and course field trips require a Commercial Use Authorization. The Park typically accepts applications for 2-year CUAs  through mid-March each year, and CUA's are activity-specific. Please contact info@mountaineers.org if you would like to apply for a CUA for a field trip or paid clinic for an activity we do not already have a CUA for. Please follow all Mountaineers group guidelines when leading trips or courses in North Cascades National Park. 

Notes:

• Leaders are responsible for securing backcountry permits or other required permits even if  we have a CUA.
• Leaders must have all relevant CUAs with them in paper or electronic copy to show Parks Staff as requested. 
• All Hiking course field trips or paid clinics must have a First aid and CPR certified leader. Current (non-expired) certificates must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
• All mountaineering field trips or paid clinics must have a WFR-certified leader and a leader with documented climbing certifications (an AMGA certification OR Mountaineers climb leader with a recent resume of training and experience). Both qualifications must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip

View list of current North Cascades CUAs

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2, Basic Experience Climb
• Elevation Gain: 4,910 ft
• High Point: 8,080 ft

• Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  Stephen Mather Wilderness
• Parking Permit Required: None
• Recommended Party Size: 6
• Maximum Party Size: 6
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6