Black Peak/Northeast Ridge

An accessible, moderate climb (Grade III, low 5th class rock, up to 30° snow) near Washington Pass. The approach is enjoyable and travels through Heather Pass and past Lewis Lake to camp at Wing Lake (6,900 ft). The rock can be loose in places but improves higher on the route. Times: 4-6 hr trailhead to camp, 4-7 hr camp to summit.

getting there

Take Highway 20 to Rainy Pass. Turn right into the picnic  parking lot and for Lake Ann/Heather Pass Trail.


  • It is arguable if this would qualify as an Intermediate Rock route (three linked pitches with a low Class 5 move in each) or just an Intermediate Mountaineering climb. The technical portion of this route is Grade III, and takes several hours even when simul-climbing. The middle section of the route is the most difficult with some 5th class moves here and there.
  • There can be an amazing amount of loose rock falling on the first pitch for other parties or the first climbers above. Stay around the corner for protection from the inevitable and prolific rock fall.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
  • Length: 10.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 4,130 ft
  • 8,970 ft
  • Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
    Stephen Mather Wilderness
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6
  • USGS Mt Arriva
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