Mount Logan/Douglas Glacier

GETTING THERE

Drive I-5, taking Exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington, turning east to Sedro Wooley and SR 20. Continue 47 mi to Marblemount for trip permits at Park Ranger Station. Continue to Easy Pass Trailhead and park, 3,700 ft.

APPROACH

Hike the Easy Pass Trail 3.7 mi to Easy Pass (6,500 ft). Descend to Fisher Creek and follow it's far side, contouring and losing elevation, following the path of least resistance until you are below the basin under the Douglas Glacier. Turn left (south) and travel cross country into the basin. Good camping available here.

ASCENT ROUTE

Ascend a snow gully or scramble rocks to attain the glacier. Climb the glacier to the col (steep at top). Ascend the 3rd-4th class summit block using the standard route.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Ice ax, crampons, small alpine rack.

NOTES

• This climb is best done early season to avoid bushwhacking.
• This is a great route for climbing Mount Logan in a reasonably-paced three-day trip.

information for leaders

Courses, paid clinics, staff-led programs, and course field trips require a Commercial Use Authorization. The Park typically accepts applications for 2-year CUAs  through mid-March each year, and CUA's are activity-specific. Please contact info@mountaineers.org if you would like to apply for a CUA for a field trip or paid clinic for an activity we do not already have a CUA for. Please follow all Mountaineers group guidelines when leading trips or courses in North Cascades National Park. 

Notes:

• Leaders are responsible for securing backcountry permits or other required permits even if  we have a CUA.
• Leaders must have all relevant CUAs with them in paper or electronic copy to show Parks Staff as requested. 
• All Hiking course field trips or paid clinics must have a First aid and CPR certified leader. Current (non-expired) certificates must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
• All mountaineering field trips or paid clinics must have a WFR-certified leader and a leader with documented climbing certifications (an AMGA certification OR Mountaineers climb leader with a recent resume of training and experience). Both qualifications must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip

View list of current North Cascades CUAs

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb
• Length: 30.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 8,500 ft
• High Point: 9,088 ft

• Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  Stephen Mather Wilderness
• Parking Permit Required: None
• Recommended Party Size: 6
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12