Mount Logan/Douglas Glacier

Mount Logan via the Douglas Glacier is rated Grade II, Class 4. A great multi-day climbing in the remote North Cascades.

GETTING THERE

Drive I-5, taking Exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington, turning east to Sedro Wooley and SR 20. Continue 47 mi to Marblemount for trip permits at Park Ranger Station. Continue to Easy Pass Trailhead and park, 3,700 ft.

APPROACH

Hike the Easy Pass Trail 3.7 mi to Easy Pass (6,500 ft). Descend to Fisher Creek and follow it's far side, contouring and losing elevation, following the path of least resistance until you are below the basin under the Douglas Glacier. Turn left (south) and travel cross country into the basin. Good camping available here.

ASCENT ROUTE

Ascend a snow gully or scramble rocks to attain the glacier. Climb the glacier to the col (steep at top). Ascend the 3rd-4th class summit block using the standard route.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT) ELEVATION LOSS (FT) MILAGE (MI)
Seattle to Trailhead 3.5 150
Trailhead to Camp 10 4,000 1,500 ~13
Camp to Summit 6-9 3,000 ~2
Summit to Trailhead 13-14 1,500 7,000 ~15

EQUIPMENT

Ice ax, crampons, small alpine rack.

NOTES

  • This climb is best done early season to avoid bushwhacking.
  • This is a great route for climbing Mount Logan in a reasonably-paced three-day trip.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb
  • Length: 30.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 8,500 ft
  • 9,088 ft
  • Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
    Stephen Mather Wilderness
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
Map
  • Green Trails Mt Logan No. 49
  • USGS Mt Logan
Activities

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