Mount Shuksan SE Ridge
Alpine rock alternative summit route with pitches ranging from 5.3 - 5.7, with intermittent 5th class scrambling. Accessible from both the Sulphide and Fisher Chimneys routes, this route ascends the prominent ridge to the SE and descends the established gulley.
Exiting the Sulphide Glacier, the SE Ridge presents itself without mistake. Trend right off of the glacier and gain the ridge sooner rather than later. Making the mistake of starting up the gulley would make it impossible to course-correct back onto the ridge without backtracking. Intermittent 5th class scrambling between pitches, staying true to the ridge proper, there are two unavoidable steps (5.6 & 5.7) that must be climbed. There are a handful of opportunities to bail into the gulley (climber's left) off of the ridge. The exposure is substantial with minimal options for selecting your own route. If you are staying true to the ridge the only route is up. The rock is very solid and takes gear well (mostly friends and tricams). Descend the established gulley on existing rap anchors.
information for leaders
Courses, paid clinics, staff-led programs, and course field trips require a Commercial Use Authorization. The Park typically accepts applications for 2-year CUAs through mid-March each year, and CUA's are activity-specific. Please contact info@mountaineers.org if you would like to apply for a CUA for a field trip or paid clinic for an activity we do not already have a CUA for. Please follow all Mountaineers group guidelines when leading trips or courses in North Cascades National Park.
Notes:
- Leaders are responsible for securing backcountry permits or other required permits even if we have a CUA.
- Leaders must have all relevant CUAs with them in paper or electronic copy to show Parks Staff as requested.
- All Hiking course field trips or paid clinics must have a First aid and CPR certified leader. Current (non-expired) certificates must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
- All mountaineering field trips or paid clinics must have a WFR-certified leader and a leader with documented climbing certifications (an AMGA certification OR Mountaineers climb leader with a recent resume of training and experience). Both qualifications must be uploaded to the park web portal by Mountaineers staff prior to the trip
- Suitable Activities: Climbing
- Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
- Seasons: June, July, August, September
- Weather: View weather forecast
- Difficulty: 5.7
- Length: 18.5 mi
- Elevation Gain: 9,115 ft
- 9,127 ft
- Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
- Parking Permit Required: None
- Recommended Party Size: 12
- Maximum Party Size: 12
- Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
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