Mount Shuksan SE Ridge

Alpine rock alternative summit route with pitches ranging from 5.3 - 5.7, with intermittent 5th class scrambling. Accessible from both the Sulphide and Fisher Chimneys routes, this route ascends the prominent ridge to the SE and descends the established gulley.

Exiting the Sulphide Glacier, the SE Ridge presents itself without mistake. Trend right off of the glacier and gain the ridge sooner rather than later. Making the mistake of starting up the gulley would make it impossible to course-correct back onto the ridge without backtracking. Intermittent 5th class scrambling between pitches, staying true to the ridge proper, there are two unavoidable steps (5.6 & 5.7) that must be climbed. There are a handful of opportunities to bail into the gulley (climber's left) off of the ridge. The exposure is substantial with minimal options for selecting your own route. If you are staying true to the ridge the only route is up. The rock is very solid and takes gear well (mostly friends and tricams).  Descend the established gulley on existing rap anchors.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: 5.7
  • Length: 18.5 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 9,115 ft
  • 9,127 ft
  • Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Party Size: 12
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
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