Mount Denali/Mount McKinley via the West Buttress

Intermediate Alpine Climb. The West Buttress is the standard route on Mount Denali (20,310 ft), typically a 21-30 day round-trip expedition with about 13,000 ft of elevation gain from the Kahiltna Glacier basecamp. The route ascends the Kahiltna Glacier to the West Buttress ridge, passing established camps, large glaciers, and high alpine terrain in the heart of the Alaska Range.

Access is by ski plane to basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier (~7,200 ft). From there the route follows the main glacier with sled hauling and cache carries to camps at approximately 7,800 ft, 11,000 ft, and the 14,000 ft basin. Above 14 Camp, climbers ascend Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill to reach High Camp (~17,200 ft) on the West Buttress. The summit route follows the exposed ridge over Denali Pass (~18,200 ft) and along the upper mountain to the summit (20,310 ft).

The West Buttress is considered the least technical route on Denali but remains a serious high-altitude expedition involving glacier travel, crevasse hazard, severe weather, and extended time on the mountain.