Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

The Easton Glacier is moderately sloped, with one steep section on the Roman Wall just below the summit plateau, and gaining nearly 5,000 feet from camp to summit. Views of Glacier Peak, North Cascades, and north Puget Sound. Approach is popular with snowmobilers in early season. Times: 3-4 hr trailhead to camp, 5-8 hr climb to summit.

getting there

Take I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon and go east on SR-20 (North Cascades Highway) and turn left on Baker Lake Road. Continue 12.5 mi to just past the Rocky Creek Bridge, turn left onto Forest Road 12. Go 3.5 mi to Sulfur Creek Road (Forest Road 13). Turn right and follow it 6 mi to its end at the Park Butte Trailhead (3,360 ft).

Approach

Cross Sulfur Creek, through Schreiber’s Meadows, through timber, across melt water streams, and up forested slope (switch backs) to Morovitz Meadows (2 mi). From Upper Meadow take right fork to Baker Pass. Head up on a trail to the crest of the Railroad Grade. Campsites are in trees behind eastern moraine around 5,500 ft, and on ridge east of Railroad Grade at 5,800 ft. High camps are possible north of Baker Pass at 6,000 ft, and as high as 6,800 ft in low snow conditions.

Ascent Route

From high camp get onto the Easton Glacier and ascend almost due north aiming at or a little west of Sherman Peak. Near the base of Sherman Peak, go west to the eastern base of the Roman Wall. Go up snow slopes or ascend to rocky ridge, keeping right of Roman Wall. Ascend steep snow past the Roman Wall to large summit plateau. The summit (10,778 ft) is at the far east-northeast side.

Descent Route

Descend the climbing route.

Trip Profile

Segment TIME (HR)  ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
TH to Camp 3-4 2,400
Camp to Summit 5-8 5,000
Summit to Camp 2-3
Camp to TH 2-3

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier equipment including wands.

NOTEs

  • The route described stays east (right) of the major crevasses.
  • In low snow conditions, a route can be found that borders the Deeming Glacier.
  • The upper snow slope is steep enough to pose problems, if icy.
  • In early to mid season, a direct line up the Easton Glacier may be possible, crossing the bergschrund on snow bridges.
  • Obtain a permit at the Baker Lake ranger station in Sedro Woolley.

Information for LEADERS

This route is for CLIMBS ONLY. Field trips to this area should be listed on the Mt. Baker Recreation Area Route/Place.

This is a very popular climbing route. Please check the PRIORITY CLIMBS LIST before listing trip to be sure your branch has priority for this route for the dates you plan to schedule it.


  • Suitable Activities: Backcountry Skiing, Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M3G Mountain 3 Glacier Ski
  • Length: 14.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,500 ft
  • 10,778 ft
Map
  • USGS Mt Baker
  • Green Trails Mount Baker Wilderness Climbing No. 13SX
  • USGS Baker Pass
Activities

Upcoming Activities

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Climbing Trip
An early season climb for 2021 Seattle Intensive Basic students needing to check off their
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M3G Mountain 3 Glacier Ski
Sat, May 21, 2022 - Sun, May 22, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Feb 1
Seattle Branch

TAC MAC Alpine Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Youth & Climbing Field trip: Mountaineers Adventure Club - Tacoma
Alpine climb for Tacoma MAC Students. This is Shelby's leadership climb.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M3G Mountain 3 Glacier Ski
Sat, Jun 4, 2022 - Sun, Jun 5, 2022
No Prerequisites
5 participants 1 instructor
Registration closes Jun 2
Tacoma Branch

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Climbing Trip
This Monday climb is an extension to the Everett Basic Course, weekend, Snow 2 Field
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M3G Mountain 3 Glacier Ski
Mon, Jun 6, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
5 participants 1 leader
Registration closes Jun 4
Everett Branch

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Climbing Trip
1-2 day climb of Easton route depending on party skills and conditions. Priority given to
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb
Sat, Jun 11, 2022 - Sun, Jun 12, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
5 participants 2 leaders
Registration opens Mar 1
Seattle Branch

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Climbing Trip
Summit bid for Foothills Basic Climbing students following completion of Snow 2 field trip.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb
Mon, Jun 13, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
4 participants 1 leader
Registration opens May 16
Foothills Branch

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Climbing Field trip: Basic Climbing Course
This is a basic glacier climb for the Tacoma Basic Alpine Climbing Course.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M3G Mountain 3 Glacier Ski
Sat, Jun 18, 2022 - Sun, Jun 19, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
6 participants 0 instructors
Registration opens Mar 31; Instructor registration open now
Tacoma Branch

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Climbing Trip
Two day push on Mount Baker, should be fun, please don't reach out to register
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M3G Mountain 3 Glacier Ski
Sat, Jun 18, 2022 - Sun, Jun 19, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
8 participants 3 leaders
Canceled
Tacoma Branch

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Climbing Trip
Fleming SIG Glacier Climb. Open spots will be available to others only after June 25th.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M3G Mountain 3 Glacier Ski
Sat, Jul 9, 2022 - Sun, Jul 10, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
0 participants 0 leaders
Registration closes Jul 7
Seattle Branch

Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Baker/Easton Glacier

Climbing Trip
Climb reserved for Kitsap Basic students in need of a glacier climb.
Difficulty: Technical 3, Strenuous 3, Basic Glacier Climb, M3G Mountain 3 Glacier Ski
Sat, Jul 30, 2022 - Sun, Jul 31, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
8 participants 3 leaders
Registration opens May 16
Kitsap Branch
Trip Reports
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