Mount Stuart/North Ridge

Getting There

Drive I-90 to exit 85, turn left to join SR-970. Drive 6.6 mi and turn left on Teanaway River Road. Follow north fork road approximately 23 mil to end of road at 4,243 ft.

APPROACH

Take this trail to Ingalls Pass (6,480 ft) and on to Ingalls Lake. From the north end outlet of Ingalls Lake traverse toward Mount Stuart staying to the east of the ridge line until coming to Stuart Pass. Staying on the south, right, side of the ridge ascend a climbers trail to the saddle at the base of the West Ridge. Descend talus and snow below the west wall until able to ascend to Goat Pass, 7,650 ft. Bivy sites available here.

ASCENT ROUTE

From Goat Pass, descend on snow or ice about 100 ft to 200 ft to the Stuart Glacier and traverse toward the North Ridge. Caution advised because the moderately steep glacier passes above some large crevasses. Also beware of falling ice and rock.

To access the ridge, climb a snow filled gully leading from the glacier at 7,800 ft, usually via 4th class rock on the edge of the gully, to the ridge at 8,200 ft and possible bivy sites. The route follows the jagged ridge crest for eleven pitches until it narrows sharply just below a giant buttress, the Great Gendarme.

The gendarme can be climbed directly via a crack (5.9) for a direct finish. Most parties rappel 75 ft off the right side of the ridge below the buttress, then traverse into and across a gully, snow and wet or icy rock until mid summer (low 5th class). Traverse upward to a ledge and climb another four to five pitches of class 4 and low class 5 to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Scramble to the false summit. Descend steep snow or scree then keep right through sparse trees to enter the Cascadian Couloir, descended to the valley floor. From the base, hiking west on Ingalls Creek Trail a short distance will bring you to a fork. The left crosses Ingalls Creek and climbs over Long’s Pass. The right leads back to Ingalls Lake.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Rack to 3-1/2 inches, ice ax and crampons.

NOTES

Last available water is at Ingalls Lake. A very popular and crowded climb. Variations can be done, including the full North Ridge or the Great Gendarme, making the route significantly longer and more technical. Permit required. Contact Leavenworth Ranger Station for updated backcountry regulations for the area.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: May, June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
• Elevation Gain: 5,525 ft
• High Point: 9,415 ft

• Land Manager: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests
  Alpine Lakes Wilderness
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12