Guye Peak/West Face

Getting there

Take Exit 52 off of I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass, and turn northwest onto Alpental Road. Drive to the parking lot at the end of Alpental Road.

Note: All roads with the "Strasse" name along the Alpental access road are private roads. As of 2021, residents of the Alpental Community Club forbid both driving and walking access via their private roads. Climbers must access the talus field using a new, non-established approach, that does not cross private land.

APPROACH

Make a rising traverse up talus to the far left (north) side of Guye Peak's west face. At the end of the talus field is a rocky stream bed—it may be dry depending upon time of year. Ascend it—some may want a belay up the steepest section.

ASCENT ROUTE

Exit right onto a very large ramp with full grown trees. The ramp does a rising traverse all the way across the west face from north to south. It is visible from the road. Some may want a belay here, but most parties may be willing to scramble it. At the end of the ramp, ascend 40 feet of Class 4 to low Class 5 solid rock to another grassy ramp. This ramp rises to the left (north), and goes about halfway across the face, where it ends at a notch. Go through the notch, to climber's right, into the center of a wide gully. Here is the crux and final pitch. It starts up a steep crack/face and is low 5th class for approximately 30 feet, then it becomes Class 4 for about half a rope length, up rocks and through alpine trees. There is a good belay just before the notch at the top of this pitch. Unrope at the notch and scramble left (north) to the summit. There are three summits of nearly equal height—the summit register is on the south summit. The route ends between the south and middle peaks.

DESCENT ROUTE

From south summit, follow climber’s path around right (east) side of middle peak. At notch between middle and north peaks (scout ahead for correct notch), descend the gully and slabs to right to go around east side of north peak. The descent is ~100 feet—most groups will want at least an arm rappel. Then scramble up easy gully to notch on north side of north peak. A well-defined scrambler’s trail then leads down beside small pond, then left (west) to the Alpental parking lot.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment and an alpine rack with a few medium chocks.

NOTES

• There is some rotten rock on this route. Getting from the south to the north summit takes some time and requires caution.
• Credit is given for reaching any one of the summits.
• Traversing around east side of north peak on descent is much easier than west side traverse recommended in previous Basic Climbs Guides. Also, return to Alpental parking lot is shorter than the Commonwealth Basin route.

Information for LEADERS

Permits

As of 2017, the Snoqualmie Ranger District considers Mountaineers trips and courses to be "nominal use". Leaders should print and copy this designation letter to show rangers they may see on trail.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Strenuous 1, Technical 2
• Elevation Gain: 1,700 ft
• High Point: 5,168 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Snoqualmie Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12