Guye Peak/South Gully-South Spur

Guye Peak via the South Gully-South Spur route is a class 3 climb.

Getting there

Drive I-90 to Snoqualmie Pass. There is no parking at Sahale Ski Club area so start at the Commonwealth Trailhead.

APPROACH

From the PCT trailhead head up into Commonwealth Basin, then progress up the SE side of Guye Peak, remaining mindful to stay on public lands. Be aware the Sahalie Ski Club property is private.

ASCENT ROUTE

Follow the South Gully straight up. A hand line and prussik can be used in a couple of spots for the timid climbers. Lots of trees to fix and anchor. Continue up and north until you come to a chock stone (approximately 4,500 ft). Then traverse right (east) for 50-100 ft then follow the south spur to the summit.

A climber could attempt the chockstone and continue up the same gully, but protection and a belay may be required. Approximately 200 ft above the chockstone you can enter the gully again to gain the south summit. The traverse to the middle summit by going slightly to the east of the ‘middle’ summit down around some obstructing rock.

DESCENT ROUTE

Rappel down the middle summit and scramble across an exposed gully to the base of the North Peak summit. From the bottom of this, there is a scramble gully going up the from there to just north of the north peak. Decend the North Peak to the north. Continue down to the saddle between Guye Peak and Cave Ridge. Continue down around northward until you get to a junction with the Snoqualmie Trail.

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment.

NOTES

This climb can be done with no pro unless you decide to ascend the chockstone. A rope for a hand line going up some of the exposed sections might be warranted depending on the confidence of the group. Two slings used on the rap. Climbers need a prussik, belay device, and locking carabiner. Strongly recommend helmet be worn once you enter the talus field. Climber induced rock fall is very probable on this route.

The descent can be made via the Cave Ridge Trail. If this descent route is desired, leave a car at the Alpental parking lot in order to get back to the Commonwealth Trailhead.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb
  • Elevation Gain: 2,300 ft
  • 5,168 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
  • USGS Snoqualmie Pass
Activities

Upcoming Activities

Intermediate Alpine Climb - Guye Peak/South Gully-South Spur

Climbing Trip
A fun route when in condition with some mixed/ice climbing. Grade III AI2+ M3. Winter
Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
Sat, Feb 12, 2022
Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required
3 participants 0 leaders
Registration opens Jan 1
Seattle Branch
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