Guye Peak/South Gully-South Spur

Guye Peak via the South Gully-South Spur route is a class 3 climb.


Drive I-90 to Snoqualmie Pass. There is no parking at Sahale Ski Club area so start at the Commonwealth Trailhead.


When approaching the route the Becky guide offers a decent description. Essentially you will follow the road to the top and beyond the ski lift until it ends. From there, head north eastwards towards the rock cliffs then follow the cliffs to the climbers right towards the south end of the peak. When looking for the correct gully to ascend, pass the first small gully (10-15 ft wide) and continue across the talus to an expansive gully (25+ ft wide). Follow this gully straight up. It is a short bush whack from the top of the Sahale Ski area to the base of the south west cliffs. Once at the cliff is was a clear traverse to the South Gully.


Follow the South Gully straight up. A hand line and prussik can be used in a couple of spots for the timid climbers. Lots of trees to fix and anchor. Continue up and north until you come to a chock stone (approximately 4,500 ft). Then traverse right (east) for 50-100 ft then follow the south spur to the summit.

A climber could attempt the chockstone and continue up the same gully, but protection and a belay may be required. Approximately 200 ft above the chockstone you can enter the gully again to gain the south summit. The traverse to the middle summit by going slightly to the east of the ‘middle’ summit down around some obstructing rock.


Rappel down the middle summit and scramble across an exposed gully to the base of the North Peak summit. From the bottom of this, there is a scramble gully going up the from there to just north of the north peak. Decend the North Peak to the north. Continue down to the saddle between Guye Peak and Cave Ridge. Continue down around northward until you get to a junction with the Snoqualmie Trail.


Standard rock equipment.


This climb can be done with no pro unless you decide to ascend the chockstone. A rope for a hand line going up some of the exposed sections might be warranted depending on the confidence of the group. Two slings used on the rap. Climbers need a prussik, belay device, and locking carabiner. Strongly recommend helmet be worn once you enter the talus field. Climber induced rock fall is very probable on this route.

The descent can be made via the Cave Ridge Trail. If this descent route is desired, leave a car at the Alpental parking lot in order to get back to the Commonwealth Trailhead.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: May, July, August, September, October
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb
  • Elevation Gain: 2,300 ft
  • 5,168 ft
  • Green Trails Snoqualmie Pass No. 207
  • USGS Snoqualmie Pass

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