Witches Tower/Southwest Corner

Witches Tower is the distinct rock pinnacle at the west end of the Enchantments. It divides the Snow Creek Glacier between Little Annapurna and Dragontail Peaks. The Southwest Corner is a basic rock climb with a short step rated 5.5.

getting there

From US-2 in Leavenworth, turn onto Icicle Creek Road. Follow the road 8.6 mi to Bridge Creek Campground. Turn left and drive through campground, cross the river to Forest Road 7601 (Eightmile Creek Road). Drive 4 mi to start of Lake Stuart trailhead 3,500 ft.

Approach

Follow the Lake Stuart Trail for 2.5 mi then go left on the Colchuck Lake Trail. Reach Colchuck Lake (5,570 ft) in another 1.8 mi. Follow trail around south end of lake, then ascend to Aasgard Pass (7,750 ft). Hike south toward Witches Tower, and ascend snow or Class 2 rock to the col just southwest of the peak. Camp here or near Aasgard Pass (be prepared to camp on snow).

Climbing Route

From the col, ascend the sharp ridge for 100 feet, then traverse a few feet right on the South Face (Class 4). Make a step up (5.5 move), climb a short face, and scramble to summit, jumping a 4-foot slot.

Descent

Descend the south face (Class 2-3).

Trip Profile

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 4,200
Camp to Summit 2-3 800
Summit to Camp 1
Camp toTrailhead 4-5

Notes

  • Witches Tower/South Face may not be climbed for Basic Alpine Climbing Course credit.
  • Can be done as a one-day climb, but is best done as a two-day climb, combined with Dragontail Peak. Dragontail can be done by the east route from camp.
  • It is helpful for rope leaders on the first pitch of this climb to have had some experience placing protection in order to locate placements which may be hard to find.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Basic Rock Climb, Technical 1, Strenuous 3
  • Length: 10.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 5,000 ft
  • 8,520 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Alpine Lakes East (Stuart Range) No. 208SX
  • USGS Enchantment Lakes
  • Green Trails Enchantment Lakes No. 209S
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