Prusik Peak/South Face

Prusik Peak's South Face route, also known as the Burgner-Stanley route, is a Grade III, 5.9 climb.

getting there

Drive US 2 over Stevens Pass to just west of Leavenworth. Turn right on Icicle Creek road and drive 8.6 mil to Eightmile Road. Turn left and drive 3.5 mi to end and the Stuart Lake Trail, 3,600 ft.

APPROACH

Hike trail about 2.5 mi to Colchuck Lake Trail 1559A. Follow the trail across Mountaineer Creek, then south through boulders and up switchbacks 1.6 mi to Colchuck Lake, 5,570 ft.

To ascend Aasgard Pass (labeled Colchuck Pass on USGS Enchantment Lakes map), follow the path around the lake to the large boulders at the south end of the lake. Follow the stream staying to the left and eventually going left of the first cliffs. Continue southeast up rock and heather, or snow in early season, to just northeast of Aasgard Pass and upper limit of the Enchantment basin.

Descend easterly through the lake system of the upper plateau. When the route drops from Talisman Lake to Rune Lake (Inspiration and Perfection, respectively, on USGS Enchantment Lakes map) ascend to the gentle ridge east of Rune’s upper basin to Gnome Tarn. From here traverse northeast to Prusik’s South Face, 7,350 ft.

ASCENT ROUTE

Start left of two deep chimneys in a crack system on steep white granite, 5.8 to a belay below some shrubby pines. 5.7 climbing works up through some pines. Pitch 3 climbs up and works right through corners and cracks to a shallow chimney, 5.8. Another 5.8 pitch climbs up the chimney to belay beneath chockstone.

For pitch 5, climb up and squirm through the hole behind the chockstone (a tight fit, not recommended wearing a pack through the hole) then work slightly right to an awkward, slippery chimney with one fixed piece of protection, 5.9+, reaching the left end of long ledge.

Move the belay to the right end where pitch 7, an athletic 5.9 crack pitch, climbs to the summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend off the north face with three to four single rope rappels or various combinations of double and single rope rappels. When able traverse left, west, to Prusik Pass at the base of the West Ridge.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Seattle to Trailhead 3.5 3,650
Trailhead to Camp 10 650
Camp to Summit 3-6
Summit to Trailhead 6-8

EQUIPMENT

Rack to 3-1/2 inches, ice ax, crampons in early season.

NOTES

Clean, solid granite on a classic face. Permits are required and can be difficult to obtain except well in advance. Numerous camp sites available in Enchantments.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: May, June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast.
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Elevation Gain: 4,400 ft
  • 8,000 ft
Map
  • Green Trails Mt Stuart No. 209
  • USGS Enchantment Lakes
  • USGS Cashmere
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