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Dragontail Peak/Triple Couloirs


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Dragontail Peak/Triple Couloirs

An intermediate-level ice climb rated Grade III, WI3. It's 12.5 miles with 7,030 feet of elevation gain and 70- to 80-degree water ice climbing. A cascade class route that climbs three couloirs up the north face of Dragontail Peak.

getting there

Drive US-2 east to Leavenworth. Just before entering town, turn right on Icicle Creek Road. Follow Road 8.5 miles to Bridge Creek Campground. Turn left and drive through campground, cross the river to Eightmile Creek Road (Forest Road 7601). Drive 4 mi to start of Lake Stuart Trailhead (3,600 ft).

APPROACH

Take Lake Stuart Trail for 2.5 mi, then go left on the Colchuck Lake Trail. Reach Colchuck Lake (5,570 ft) in another 1.8 mi. There are campsites on both the west side and the south end of the lake. Camp as near the south end as possible.

ASCENT ROUTE

The climb starts just climbers east of lowest point of Dragontail Peak's north face.   Enter the hidden couloir and climb on 40- to 50-degree snow and ice for about 800 feet.  At this point you will reach the steep ice runnels for about three pitches (140 meters) of 70- to 80-degree ice and mixed climbing to reach the second couloir.  Then climb the second couloir for 600 feet on 40- to 50-degree snow and ice.  The transition west (climber's right) into the third couloir for 200 feet of climbing which will bring you to the northeast face of the summit.  From here traverse the ridge to the the true summit.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend southeast to the saddle, then east on a long snow slope to Aasgard Pass. From Aasgard Pass descend to Colchuck Lake. Routefinding from Aasgard Pass can be tricky: stay to center left at top to avoid cliffs; below cliffs move to right side of gully.

TRIP PROFILE

SEGMENT TIME (HR) ELEVATION GAIN (FT)
Trailhead to Camp 2-6 2,000
Camp to Summit 5-9 3,200
Summit to Camp 2
Camp to Trailhead 2-4

EQUIPMENT

Ice ax, ice tool(s) and ice screws.

NOTES 

  • The approach, usually a 5 mile hike to Colchuck Lake, is often more in winter when Eightmile road is gated.
  • If you plan to stay overnight during May through October you will need an Enchantments Wilderness Area permit.
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Ice Climb
  • Length: 12.5 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,030 ft
  • 8,840 ft
Map
  • USGS Cashmere Mtn
  • Green Trails Alpine Lakes East (Stuart Range) No. 208SX
  • USGS Enchantment Lakes
  • Green Trails The Enchantments No. 209S
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