Dragontail Peak/Serpentine Ridge

A Grade IV, 5.8, 14-pitch alpine rock climb in The Enchantments area of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Getting There

Drive US-2 east to Leavenworth. Just before entering town, turn right on Icicle Creek Road. Follow Road 8.5 miles to Bridge Creek Campground. Turn left and drive through campground, cross the river to Eightmile Creek Road (Forest Road 7601). Drive 4 mi to start of Lake Stuart Trailhead (3,600 ft).


Take Lake Stuart Trail for 2.5 mi, then go left on the Colchuck Lake Trail. Reach Colchuck Lake (5,570 ft) in another 1.8 mi. There are campsites on both the west side and the south end of the lake. Camp as near the south end as possible.


The route follows a prominent ridge for about 2000 feet on the NW face of Dragontail Peak to just below the summit block. The exact pitch count is not essential as the upper 2/3rds of the route are low 5th class (with some mid-5th steps) and belays can be had at any time. The Grade IV rating from Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol. 1 is probably on the conservative side; class 5.8 rating comes from 2 pitches.  The rest is easier 5th class and simul-climbing.


Descend southeast to the saddle, then east on a long snow slope to Aasgard Pass. From Aasgard Pass descend to Colchuck Lake. Routefinding from Aasgard Pass can be tricky: stay to center left at top to avoid cliffs; below cliffs move to right side of gully.


Trailhead to Camp 2-6 2,000
Camp to Summit 5-10 3,200
Summit to Camp 2
Camp to Trailhead 2-4


Ice ax, crampons, medium rack to 3 inches.


  • If you plan to stay overnight during May through October you will need an Enchantments Wilderness Area permit.
  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Length: 12.5 None
  • Elevation Gain: 7,030 ft
  • 8,840 ft
  • Green Trails Alpine Lakes East (Stuart Range) No. 208SX
  • USGS Enchantment Lakes
  • USGS Cashmere Mtn
  • Green Trails Enchantment Lakes No. 209S
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