Dragontail Peak/Serpentine Ridge

Getting There

Drive US-2 east to Leavenworth. Just before entering town, turn right on Icicle Creek Road. Follow Road 8.5 miles to Bridge Creek Campground. Turn left and drive through campground, cross the river to Eightmile Creek Road (Forest Road 7601). Drive 4 mi to start of Lake Stuart Trailhead (3,600 ft).

APPROACH

Take Lake Stuart Trail for 2.5 mi, then go left on the Colchuck Lake Trail. Reach Colchuck Lake (5,570 ft) in another 1.8 mi. There are campsites on both the west side and the south end of the lake. Camp as near the south end as possible.

ASCENT ROUTE

The route follows a prominent ridge for about 2000 feet on the NW face of Dragontail Peak to just below the summit block. The exact pitch count is not essential as the upper 2/3rds of the route are low 5th class (with some mid-5th steps) and belays can be had at any time. The Grade IV rating from Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol. 1 is probably on the conservative side; class 5.8 rating comes from 2 pitches.  The rest is easier 5th class and simul-climbing.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend southeast to the saddle, then east on a long snow slope to Aasgard Pass. From Aasgard Pass descend to Colchuck Lake. Routefinding from Aasgard Pass can be tricky: stay to center left at top to avoid cliffs; below cliffs move to right side of gully.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Ice ax, crampons, medium rack to 3 inches.

NOTES 

• If you plan to stay overnight during May through October you will need an Enchantments Wilderness Area permit.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
• Length: 12.5 None
• Elevation Gain: 7,030 ft
• High Point: 8,840 ft

• Land Manager: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests
  The Enchantments, Wenatchee River Ranger District (OWNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 4
• Maximum Party Size: 8
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 8